Living Like a Local in Marrakesh: Insider Tips from Resident Photographer Chris Griffiths
Lonely Planet local and travel photographer Chris Griffiths has documented Morocco for over four years and now calls Marrakesh home, captivated by its historic architecture and dynamic creative scene. Amid the medina's winding alleys, he seeks out affordable eats, peaceful escapes from the crowds, and prime photo opportunities.
The best places in Marrakesh are… the souqs and food markets. A spice and herb enthusiast who adores traditional Moroccan tea, I'm in heaven amid the medina's abundant varieties like lemon geranium and verbena. Pair a refreshing Moroccan sheba tea with dried fruits, nuts, olives, oil, honey, and bread for the perfect afternoon snack. Seasonal availability adds excitement to shopping, so I spend afternoons exploring fresh offerings, then recreating tagines and Moroccan tapas at home.
For cheap eats… street food stalls are unbeatable. They often hide behind mosaic counters and worn tables, but confidence is key—observe what locals eat and choose bustling spots. My go-to morning treat is meloui (Moroccan pancake) with honey, paired with nus-nus (half milk, half espresso) or mint tea. Afternoons might bring seafood pastilla (savory pie) from a bakery or loubia (herbed tomato stewed white beans).
When I need to relax… I retreat to a garden or palace. The sunken gardens of Badi Palace are a favorite, alongside the enchanting, labyrinthine Bahia Palace. Marrakesh's serene gardens and palaces are must-visits—arrive early for the best experience during a peaceful morning walk.
A typical weekend involves... scouting exhibitions and pop-up galleries for creative inspiration. Marrakesh's art scene is thriving, with gems like the newly opened Yves Saint Laurent Museum and Museum of Contemporary African Art Al Maaden. As a photographer, I gravitate to Voice Gallery, Galerie 127, and Maison de la Photographie for their curated displays.
When I meet friends for a drink… Barometre is my spot, with its mad-scientist vibe of apothecary jars filled with herb-infused liquors for inventive cocktails and solid tapas. Café du Livre offers a lively atmosphere and the town's cheapest beer. For non-alcoholic vibes, Café Clock delivers with gnaoua music and a sociable crowd. I save big nights for festivals like the upcoming Oasis Festival.
When I want to get out of the city… I escape to laid-back Essaouira's coast, trek in Imlil's High Atlas mountains, roam the Agafay Desert, or visit Ourika Valley's Berber villages. Marrakesh's connectivity makes weekend getaways effortless, with options as endless as the medina's stalls.
