Living Like a Local in Panama City: Insider Tips from Lonely Planet Expert Martina Gili
Panama City's tropical allure captivates Lonely Planet Local Martina Gili, who cherishes how this jungle-encircled metropolis blends urban excitement with family-friendly escapes.
Beyond rooftop bars, artisanal markets, and gourmet dining, Martina seeks out premier road trips to lush rainforests, Pacific beaches, and the Caribbean's myriad islands.
When friends visit... I guide them to the Miraflores Visitor Center to watch massive ships navigate the Panama Canal. A bike ride along the Amador Causeway offers stunning 360-degree panoramas of the skyline, ocean, and iconic Bridge of the Americas linking the city to the interior. Evenings shine in Casco Viejo's historic cobblestone lanes.
The ideal family neighborhood... is Clayton. Bordering pristine jungle, it's Panama City's greenest enclave, boasting homes, playgrounds, top schools, and the Kiwanis Sports Center for tennis, volleyball, soccer, baseball, and swimming. What I love most: handling shopping, yoga, or coffee runs on foot—no car needed.
Lonely Planet Local Martina Gili and her son savor poolside moments at Clayton's Kiwanis Sports Center © Martina Gili/Lonely Planet
With a toddler in tow... we delight in urban wildlife: pelicans plunging into Amador Causeway waters or ñeques (agoutis) at the City of Knowledge park. These tailless, cartoonish rodents munch nuts and mangoes, hopping across lawns. Kiwanis' outdoor pool is perfect for sunny afternoons, chased by fresh pineapple juice and quesitos (sweet cheese pastries) at Pan y Canela Café.
Prime nightlife... means bar-hopping Casco Viejo's revitalized streets. Reserve at Ochoymedio for intimate dinners and craft cocktails amid lanterns, tropical greenery, and a Virgin Mary mural—exemplary Latin fine dining. Catch skyline sunsets with a mojito atop Casa Casco, or groove to world-class jazz at Danilo’s Jazz Club in the American Trade Hotel.
Escaping the city... leads to Gamboa Rainforest Resort for kayaking the Chagres River, amid howler monkeys and vibrant birds—just 30 minutes away. Enjoy vast pools and jungle tours, including Emberá indigenous community visits.
Grasping Panama's nuanced identity... start with award-winning director Abner Benaim's documentaries. Shaped by Spanish rule, Colombian oversight, and U.S. occupation, Panama rewards understanding. Invasion examines the 1989 U.S. incursion; Bosses and Maids humorously portrays class dynamics through elite-maid relationships.
Typical weekends... poolside at our condo or quick getaways: cool El Valle mountains, Pearl Archipelago's Contadora Island, or Caribbean Isla Grande near Portobelo—with swaying palms, turquoise seas, and stilted colorful homes.
Budget-friendly eats... join locals at The Fish Market (Mercado de Mariscos) for ceviche amid unloading boats. For variety, El Trapiche (Via Argentina or Albrook Mall) serves ropa vieja (shredded beef with rice, veggies) and frothy chicha fruit drinks.
Panama City's biggest downside... is traffic: rush-hour gridlock demands Formula 1 skills to dodge potholes, erratic taxis, and smog-belching 'diablo' buses—flashy relics painted with icons from Amy Winehouse to Jesus.
I'm truly Panamanian when... I duck into a massive mall during rain, spinning my child on a grand carousel with popcorn and ice cream until skies clear.
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