Living Like a True Seoulite: Insider Tips from Lonely Planet Expert Hahna Yoon
Born and raised in Seoul, Lonely Planet contributor Hahna Yoon lived in New York for 17 years before returning to South Korea eight years ago. With her deep roots and global perspective, she ranks Seoul among Asia's premier destinations for exploration, dining, and nightlife.
Hahna urges visitors to skip the main tourist hubs and dive into lesser-known neighborhoods, uncovering cozy hole-in-the-wall eateries and secretive bars that reveal the city's authentic soul.
When friends visit Seoul… I take them straight to Ikseon-dong, a gem in downtown Seoul sandwiched between historic cinemas, Tapgol Park (cradle of the Korean independence movement and a haven for veterans), and Jongno-3ga (a longstanding nightlife hub for Seoul's LGBT community). Narrow alleys brim with restored hanoks—traditional Korean houses—now trendy bars, cafés, and restaurants. At night, the soft glow from these hanoks creates an enchanting ambiance.
I know I’m a true Seoulite because… I never share my destination with a cab driver until I'm inside, and I avoid late nights on Thursdays—taxis vanish after midnight.
My top venue recommendation… Cobbler, run by my favorite bartender Robin in a beautifully restored hanok in Naeja-dong. No menu here—tell the experts your flavor preferences, and they'll craft something extraordinary. Favorites include the Porma Dulce (Grey Goose, orange juice, mascarpone cheese, and celery—a surprising delight!), alcoholic ginger beer, and watermelon nomimono (Japanese for 'drink'). Robin salvaged materials to rebuild the hanok, sourced vintage furniture, and greets guests with a mini cobbler pie.
For budget-friendly eats… Grab gimbap (Korean seaweed rice rolls akin to Japanese maki). At under ₩5,000 (about US$4.50), these veggie-packed rolls are quick, satisfying, and portable. Seek out 'Kim Teacher' brand—the spicy pork version stands out.
When homesick for global flavors… I head to Itaewon, Seoul's international enclave, brimming with American-style pizza and burgers. Craving New York? A greasy pepperoni slice, craft beer, and bagels for later hit the spot.
Best sunset spot… Every Seoulite cherishes a stretch of Hangang Park, which snakes through 12 districts like a jagged smile. Mine is Mangwon, the northwest curve—stunning for spring photos. In autumn, Haneul Park (a Hangang gem) offers sunsets over shimmering silver grass.
On a typical weekday… You'll find me writing in indie cafés near my Sangsu-dong home. Early? Hello Stranger for ca phe sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee). Late? Yri Cafe's Vin Chaud warms the soul.
Escaping the city… I snag a budget flight to Jeju-do, South Korea's largest island. Famous for summer beaches, its winter coastal drives are breathtaking. Don't miss Anthracite café in a repurposed factory—home to Korea's finest coffee.
One Seoul frustration… Ubiquitous cosmetic surgery ads on buses and subways. Bigger eyes, sharper nose, larger curves—enough already! Can't I commute in peace?
Ultimate Seoul exploration tip… Research hot neighborhoods, then explore the one next door. Seoul changes fast—Hongdae's student scene spills into Yeonnam-dong and Sangsu-dong for twenty-somethings. Elites shifted from Garosu-gil to neighboring Saerosu-gil for luxury boutiques. Euljiro's speakeasies eclipse Myeongdong's fame.
