Living Like a Local in Jerusalem: Insider Tips from Journalist Miriam Berger
Miriam Berger, a Lonely Planet Local and freelance journalist based in Jerusalem, draws on years of living in the city to share authentic insights. Fluent in Arabic and Hebrew, she explores every neighborhood, often through its vibrant food scene, uncovering the diverse flavors that define Jerusalem.
When friends visit… we eat our way through the city. My top falafel spots are Abu Shukri and Yemenite Falafel Center. We savor Middle Eastern staples like shakshuka at T’mol Shilshom and kunafeh—a warm, syrupy cheese pastry—at Jaafar Sweets. Delve deeper for Ethiopian dishes at Dire, Georgian and Russian fare at Kangaroo, or Kurdish pastries at Ishtabach, showcasing Jerusalem's rich culinary tapestry.
For a big night out… I often head to Tel Aviv or Ramallah for vibrant scenes, but in Jerusalem, I dance at Sira, Cassette Bar, or HaMazkeka. The weekend kicks off Thursday night, peaking then as Friday's Jewish Sabbath quiets the west side. No massive clubs here, but lively restaurants, bars, music spots, and even spontaneous dancing at Mahane Yehuda Market keep the energy alive.
A typical weekend… starts with a long run by the First Station—a hub for Saturday strolls and bites. Great day trips beckon from Jerusalem and the West Bank, or cozy cafes suit work-from-weekend days.
Cheap eats… lead me to Cofizz and Cofix for five-shekel coffees, juices, and meals across west Jerusalem. East side favorites include bread and cheese pastries at Al Amin Sweets & Bakery and hearty falafel at Al Ayed near Damascus Gate. Street vendors' Jerusalem kaak (sesame bread) or zaatar manakeesh (thyme-topped flatbread) hit the spot anytime.
One challenge of living here… is navigating its divisions and emotional weight, which draws me to bridge spaces and document stories. Holidays intensify this—check Jewish, Christian, and Muslim observances. Passover limits west side to kosher; Ramadan quiets the east by day but buzzes at night. Old City roads close for major festivals.
Best sunset spot… from rooftop gems like Notre Dame Cheese & Wine Restaurant or View Cafe Bar at the Holy Land Hotel—or simply my backyard garden.
Escaping the city… offers beaches in Tel Aviv, the Dead Sea (a personal favorite), visits to Ramallah friends, relaxation at Hosh Jasmin near Bethlehem, or explorations in Nablus and Ein Kerem.
Food shopping… happens at affordable, fresh Musrara and Damascus Gate stalls for produce, goods, and essentials. West side: organized Mahane Yehuda Market, pricier but packed with variety. I venture to ultra-religious stores for unique interactions. Pomegranate and grapefruit seasons thrill; spinach's end disappoints.
Top traveler tip… Ride the bus—use Moovit, Waze, or Maps.me. Venture to new neighborhoods via popular eateries, chat with locals, and learn diverse perspectives on life in Jerusalem.
