Living Like a Local in Tunis: Insider Tips from Lonely Planet's Erin Harvey
As a Lonely Planet local, Erin Harvey has lived in Tunis for two years, savoring its relaxed rhythm and abundant sunny days perfect for enjoying the city's pristine beaches. Rich in culture against a stunning Mediterranean backdrop, Tunis remains refreshingly free from mass tourism. From medina shopping and hidden concerts to dancing until dawn, she adores it all. Jasmine- and bougainvillea-scented streets make this vibrant city utterly enchanting.
When friends visit… I guide them through the ancient medina's labyrinthine alleys. A highlight is the secluded rooftop terrace at Ed Dar near the Grand Mosque. Stunning vistas await from Carthage ruins and Sidi Bou Saïd's floral hills. Sip aperitifs in the gorgeous courtyard at Villa Bleue. Weekend artisanal markets showcase unique local crafts. For a pause, I unwind at Café Le Saf Saf with pine nut mint tea and people-watching. Catch sunset at The Cliff restaurant seaside, and reserve a day for picnics on La Marsa or Amilcar Beach with delicacies from Les Ravioli D’Anny.
A typical weekend involves… sports and socializing. Fridays kick off with post-work tennis, then aerial or sunset beach yoga, followed by catch-ups at La Cuisine, Nippon, or Café Takina. Saturdays begin early with horseback show jumping or beach gallops. Evenings start relaxed at Jobi or revived Villa Les Palmas, escalating to dancing at Wax Bar, Carpe Diem, or Boeuf Sur Le Toit. Sundays feature cycling or running to Gammarth's coastal viewpoint, then stocking up on seasonal produce at La Marsa’s bustling fruit and vegetable market.
When craving culture… I head to Sidi Bou Saïd for gallery hopping. Compact spaces like Ghaya Gallery and Gallerie Saladin feature acclaimed regional artists. Venues such as Café Cultural Liber’The and CineMadart pioneer Tunisian cinema tackling bold themes, often with director Q&As. Live music thrives in society—catch it in ancient Roman amphitheaters or medina's Tahar Hadid for magic. Sofa Sounds offers intimate Sunday evenings in rotating Tunis spots, including homes, spotlighting emerging local talent.
To escape the city… I roam Tunisia. Lush Zaghouan and Testour delight, alongside obscure Roman or Berber sites like abandoned Zriba. Summers mean northern Raf Raf or southeast Cap Bon. Off Ghar El Melh, a private beach peninsula with shack eateries awaits via small boat—CouCou Dream Beach is my top pick for ultimate relaxation, great food, and hammock swaying by serene waters.
Prime shopping spots… Concept stores like XYZ and Super Souk highlight local homeware and fashion. Lyoum's Tunisian-twist slogan tees thrill me, while Rock the Kasbah inspires interiors. Obsessed with kilim rugs and Berber weaves, I source via Gallerie Yasmine in Sidi Bou Saïd or custom orders at Holya in Sidi Daoud. Sadika in Gammarth blends hand-blown glass and art at unbeatable prices. I gift fouta towels, pottery, and glassware abroad.
Must-try eats: makhroud. Medina stalls sell half-kilos of these date- or fig-stuffed semolina pastries cheaply—they're irresistibly addictive. Stock pistachio dates from Deyma. Sidi Bou Saïd's bambalouni doughnuts are sugary steals. In restaurants, start with mechouia (roasted peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic) with flatbread, olive oil, and harissa. Les Terroirs de Tunisie excels in flavored harissa like ginger or rosemary.
During Ramadan… the city transforms. Iftar silences streets from 6-8pm, but by 10pm, carnival energy erupts. La Marsa Corniche buzzes late; cafés overflow. Roads flip from empty to jammed. Medina nights in the final weeks pulse with live music, exhibitions, and events.
Tunis's biggest surprise… its fun, cool vibe! Beyond camel and couscous stereotypes, it's a sophisticated, chill Mediterranean hub with lively nightlife—unique in North Africa. Pasta trumps couscous; locals exude welcoming, open-minded energy.
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