Arctic Circle Trail Greenland Part 4: Days 9-10 Descent to Sisimiut
Sisimiut, Greenland
Carefully navigating a marshy stretch, I plunged into deep mud up to my shins—a typical challenge on the Arctic Circle Trail.
ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2 | PART 3 | PART 4 | PACKING/LOGISTICS
DAY 9: Innajuattoq to Nerumaq
Hiking Distance: 18 km (11 miles) | 7 hours
A dark, wet Greenland morning with heavy fog greeted me at 8 a.m. as I packed for the next leg of the Arctic Circle Trail. Fortunately, most of the day involved a downhill descent from the mountains.
I stashed dry kindling from my previous fire attempt under a rock for fellow hikers, then descended into a valley dotted with small lakes and swaying cotton grass.
As the fog lifted, I spotted reindeer grazing on nearby hills, followed by an arctic hare. Greenland teems with wildlife.
Nerumaq hut was nearby, so I paused for a short nap to recover from the prior night's poor sleep. With a long day ahead, I needed every bit of energy.
Moving briskly, I anticipated finishing by the next evening. My pack felt significantly lighter after consuming most of my initial food supplies.
Willow Tree Forest
The trail wound through a stand of dwarf willow trees, the tallest reaching just 6 feet— the largest 'forest' I'd seen in Greenland since arriving. Arctic tundra limits tree growth.
Rivers cascaded from the mountains, often forming small waterfalls, most easily crossed by rock-hopping.
The path turned wet and swampy as the weather deteriorated.
Rain began to fall. I still hadn't located the next hut. With fog rolling in and skies darkening, tent camping in the downpour seemed inevitable.
I hunkered down in my sleeping bag, snacking on dried fish washed down with my last of potent Greenlandic schnapps to ward off the chill.
DAY 10: Kangerluarsuk Tulleq to Sisimiut
Hiking Distance: 22 km (14 miles) | 8 hours
The next morning, I geared up for what I hoped was the final trek. Almost immediately, my feet sank deep into bog mud up to my shins—not an ideal start.
After climbing a hill, I finally spotted the Tulleq hut I'd sought the night before. Just 10 more minutes, and I'd have had shelter.
The trail ascended into mountains through a high rocky valley flanked by snow-capped peaks. Scattered remnants of dog-sledding gear dotted the landscape.
Navigating boulder fields along a small river—crossing it several times—I entered the vast Nasaasaaq valley, with jagged mountains looming in the distance.
Musk Ox Encounter
Descending into this stunning valley, I noticed a large, shaggy brown figure crossing the trail: a musk ox.
Greenland's largest land mammal, musk oxen weigh up to 400 kg (880 lbs) and resemble buffalo despite goat-like relations.
Greenlanders call them Umimmak, meaning 'the long-bearded one.' They're vital for meat and wool, but approach with caution—they can charge.
I'd observed a group earlier that week from afar, but this lone bull was just 50 yards ahead, blocking the path. It eventually scented me and bolted uphill.
Passing an unexpected ski lift, I rounded a bend to behold the Arctic Ocean—and colorful Sisimiut perched on its edge.
Fishing Town of Sisimiut
Success! Trekking into town amid hundreds of barking sled dogs, I felt euphoric despite aching feet and exhaustion. A grin was plastered on my face.
Ten days on Greenland's Arctic Circle Trail through pristine wilderness was a profoundly rewarding adventure.
I foraged berries and mushrooms, encountered diverse wildlife, camped under starry skies, and reflected deeply amid nature—a real-life Into the Wild.
To celebrate, I checked into a hotel—boots mud-caked—enjoying a 20-minute hot shower with a cold beer, followed by musk ox steak and Greenlandic coffee.
Civilization never felt so good!
The next four days in Sisimiut involved exploring with fellow hikers and theater performers from Norway and Denmark. We danced to Greenlandic hip-hop and delved into Inuit culture.
Hiking the Arctic Circle Trail remains the pinnacle of my travel year. ★
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ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2 | PART 3 | PART 4 | PACKING/LOGISTICS
