Hiking Greenland's Arctic Circle Trail: Days 7-8 – River Crossings, Mosquitoes & Reindeer (Part 3)
Pingu, Greenland
I strip off my clothes and waterproof my gear in preparation for the Arctic Circle Trail's deepest and most treacherous river crossing. It's time to get wet!
ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2 | PART 3 | PART 4 | PACKING/LOGISTICS
DAY 7: Ikkattooq to Eqalugaarniarfik (and beyond)
Hiking Distance: 19 km (12 miles) | 8 hours
Before tackling the river, I first want to share the story of an inspiring Danish couple I met at the Ikkattooq cabin. We spent hours chatting as a storm raged outside.
Fleming and Ellen have completed the Arctic Circle Trail six times.
Both in their 70s, they've also traversed Greenland's vast ice cap on a month-long expedition, hauling sleds loaded with food and gear. They've trekked to Everest Base Camp, summited Mont Blanc—Europe's highest peak—and didn't start serious adventuring until their 40s.
Proof that it's never too late to embrace new challenges.
Greenland's Mosquito Challenge
The next morning, we parted ways. I climbed a steep ridge in crisp 38°F (3°C) mountain air, then descended into a vast valley where the first mosquitoes attacked.
Greenland faces a significant mosquito issue.
They breed in countless lakes and ponds, feeding primarily on reindeer. Due to climate change, hatches are occurring earlier each year, per scientific observations.
In June or July, massive swarms plague the Arctic Circle Trail— a mosquito head net is essential. By mid-August, colder nights reduce numbers, though I still met swarms in boggy areas. These pests are relentless!
The Icy River Ford
The valley is dominated by Ole’s Lakseelv, known locally as Itinneq—the trail's widest and deepest river. Cross by fording directly or detour to a nearby wooden bridge.
In early spring or heavy rain, depths can reach chest-high. In mid-August, expect knee- to thigh-deep.
Rain the previous night raised uncertainty, so I stripped naked for safety, lined my backpack with heavy-duty trash bags for waterproofing, and proceeded. Fed by Greenland's ice cap, the water was brutally cold.
Using trekking poles for balance, I crossed slowly. It peaked at thigh-top. Safely across, I dried off, repacked, and pressed on.
Reconnecting with Nature
Post-river, the trail ascends rocky mountains to Eqalugaarniarfik Hut. I spotted my sixth reindeer grazing and paused to observe.
Every 1-2 hours, a shoe-off grass break refreshes long-distance hikers. After a week offline—no emails, blogging, or social media—digital life felt distant. As a professional blogger, I cherish this unplugged wilderness reset.
Bypassing the hut, I followed an old snowmobile track fringed by wind-swept cotton grass, glancing back at the red hut fading away.
DAY 8: Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattoq (and beyond)
Hiking Distance: 19 km (12 miles) | 7 hours
Windy conditions led to a sheltered campsite amid hills, where I pitched my Hyperlite Mountain Gear Echo II tent by a pond. Snow-white arctic hares observed from nearby rocks.
Mosquitoes roused me; after wild berries and mushrooms for breakfast, I hit the trail by 9 a.m.
The route crosses a lake-dotted mountain region with permanent snow patches, evoking ancient glacial forces.
At the first Innajuattoq hut, I napped amid the rugged Taseeqqap Saqqaa range. At the larger second hut, I reunited with Fleming and Ellen, who shared the next river crossing spot. They stayed; I continued.
The Reindeer Family Encounter
Suddenly, two reindeer appeared 50 yards left, soon joined by three more—including a calf. Dropping my orange pack stealthily, I crawled uphill for photos.
Closest sighting yet—stunning shots secured.
A wind shift betrayed my week-unshowered scent; the male grunted an alarm, scattering the family.
Spring and summer bring arctic tundra blooms in purple, blue, red, pink, and yellow—my favorite, a whimsical red Dr. Seuss-like flower. The trail even threads a 'forest' of 6-7 ft dwarf willows.
Campfire Setback
Grey clouds and rising wind forced a hasty campsite hunt. A flat spot worked, though exposed; surrounding rocks built a windbreak.
Cotton grass and twigs failed against the gusts. Enter the emergency space blanket lifesaver.
I always pack a durable one for multi-day hikes. Draped over my sleeping bag, it trapped heat under the tarp shelter.
A chilly night passed with dreams of musk ox steak in Sisimiut. Fog greeted dawn. Onward! ★
ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2 | PART 3 | PART 4 | PACKING/LOGISTICS
