Trekking Greenland's Arctic Circle Trail: Part 2 – Days 4-6 Adventure Guide
Kangerlussuaq, Greenland
The journey continues across West Greenland's vibrant tundra, weaving between glacial lakes with bleached reindeer bones marking the path.
ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2 | PART 3 | PART 4 | PACKING/LOGISTICS
DAY 4: Hundesø to Katiffik
Hiking Distance 20 km (12.5 miles) | 8 hours
Arriving at Hundesø in the middle of the night, I opted to camp nearby to avoid disturbing any hikers or hunters possibly sleeping inside the cabin.
This unofficial shelter is an old camper accommodating up to four people, positioned on a rocky hill overlooking the brackish Hundesø Lake.
Reindeer bones, including skulls, antlers, and hooves—some with remnants of flesh and fur from recent kills—dot the area.
The lake's salty water is safe to drink. Crumbling fishing boats line the shore, and the sandy beach provided a comfortable campsite. I awoke to a stunning sunrise glowing orange around 4:30 a.m.
After photographing the vivid colors, I used an eye mask to sleep longer. In August, Greenland offers only about four hours of darkness nightly—highly recommended gear.
Arctic Hares and Wild Berries
A few hours into the trail, my knee began to ache from the heavy pack—a common issue on long-distance hikes that I manage with frequent long breaks.
On remote treks like this, caution is essential for safety and injury prevention.
I was amused by Arctic hares performing their distinctive high leaps and twists, suddenly bounding into the air from a standstill.
As temperatures warmed to 65°F (18°C) under the sun, I rested on a mossy spot, sampling the wild berries that attract the hares.
The terrain shifted from boggy wetlands to rocky mountain paths. Trails occasionally split, requiring careful navigation toward marked cairns, not always the most worn path.
Due to my knee, the 20 km took eight hours instead of the usual five, arriving at the Katiffik cabin where three fellow hikers were preparing dinner.
DAY 5: Katiffik to Kangerluatsiarsuaq
Hiking Distance 25 km (15 miles) | 6 hours
The Katiffik hut sits on the eastern shore of Lake Amitsorsuaq, a 14-mile-long narrow fjord-like lake. Here, I met my first hikers: Lucas from Washington, D.C., and Germans Hans and Hieko.
I shared the cabin with Lucas while the Germans tented outside. Midway through the night, Danish hiker Frieder, 70, joined us—he's completed the trail 11 times.
Frieder left a welcome surprise: a canoe!
The next section offers two options: hike lakeside or paddle across in one of the scattered, weathered canoes (10-14 rumored along the route, often patched with duct tape).
Fortuitously hiking westward, Frieder had used the best one, crossing at night. Lucas and I teamed up to paddle, resting our feet.
Crossing the Lake
Heavy-duty garbage bags are versatile ultralight gear for tarps, rain covers, or dry bags. We lined our leaky canoe with plastic, added our packs, and launched with makeshift paddles—one plastic, one duct-taped wood.
With no headwind, we progressed swiftly in the bright Arctic sun.
Greenland holds vast mineral wealth, including gold, diamonds, and rubies. We passed colorful bedrock cliffs, imagining hidden treasures within.
An ice halo encircled the sun—a striking optical effect from light refracting through atmospheric ice crystals.
Amitsorsuaq Canoe Center
The paddle took 4.5 hours to the Canoe Center cabin, the largest on the trail (sleeps 16), built for a now-defunct venture—explaining the canoes.
The Germans arrived soon after, having walked but started earlier; canoeing proved faster.
Refreshed after the break, my knee felt much better.
I pressed on solo in a second canoe down the lake, battling rising winds that pinned me to the shore. Reindeer fled upslope, but photography was impossible. Exhausted, I camped at the lake's end as sunset approached.
DAY 6: Kangerluatsiarsuaq to Ikkattooq
Hiking Distance 16 km (10 miles) | 6 hours
Camped in a valley above Lake Kangerluatsiarsuaq, I breakfasted on cold muesli with lake water, brown sugar, and wild berries—blueberries, crowberries, and tart red varieties all edible and abundant.
A refreshing splash of icy lake water invigorated me for the day.
Loons called as I followed the shoreline path. A peregrine falcon screeched from its perch, defending its territory.
Reindeer Encounters
The trail undulated over rocky hills to a pristine lakeside beach—ideal for sunbathing on clear days.
Steep climbs followed; spotting reindeer, I approached stealthily upwind, using cover for close-up photography—like a patient wildlife photographer.
Into the Mountains
Ascending to bare rock plateaus, clouds darkened with steady rain. Having spotted five Arctic hares and five reindeer so far, I donned my rain shell.
Map in hand, the Ikkattooq hut was near. Weather swayed me to stay in the compact red cabin shared with two Danish hikers, who shared hot tea and captivating trail tales over my canned fish dinner.
ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2 | PART 3 | PART 4 | PACKING/LOGISTICS
