Biking Costa Rica's Caribbean Coast: Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo Guide
"This is just like Eat Pray Love!" exclaimed Jaime, the Breakaway Backpacker, as we pedaled from the bike rental shop in Puerto Viejo toward Costa Rica's stunning Caribbean beaches. Based on our firsthand experience, the ride was liberating, exhilarating, and deeply relaxing.
We met Jaime in person the day before in Puerto Viejo. Fresh from landing in San Jose to kick off his solo year-long world trip, he hadn't biked in years but was eager for this coastal adventure along Costa Rica's Caribbean shore.
Puerto Viejo offers ample hotels, bars, and restaurants, but its town beaches can't compare to those further south. Bikes rent for US$5 per day, including locks and baskets for gear. We headed out on the well-paved coastal road seeking prime swimming and sun spots.
The 8.7-mile (14 km) route from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo hugs the coast, weaving through jungle where beach glimpses peek through dense foliage. Despite occasional potholes, the road is ideal for cycling with minimal traffic, allowing relaxed chats outbound and peaceful solo moments under the sun.
About a mile out, we reached Playa Cocles—strong waves, surfers, and fresh coconut water made it tempting to stay. Instead, we continued 30 minutes to Punta Uva. Parking under palms near the National Park, we found our favorite: a protected bay with flat, motionless water framed by jungle-cloaked cliffs. Floating amid lush greenery was invigorating, shared with just 20 others on a clear Saturday afternoon.
Tempted to linger, we pressed on to Manzanillo via jungle-lined roads, past high-end resorts, surf shops, and casual eateries near Puerto Viejo, then pure wilderness.
En route, we paused to marvel at hundreds of hand-sized Golden Orb spiders in massive generational webs. Returning, Jaime spotted a 5-foot black snake crossing the road.
Manzanillo exudes authentic Caribbean vibe, home to English-speaking Afro-Caribbean communities in colorful stilt houses, with bars, restaurants, and lodges.
Its expansive beach stretches for miles. We grabbed a quick bite at a local soda (simple Costa Rican eatery), then powered back 14 hilly km through jungle, past spiders and snake, to Puerto Viejo before sunset.
The road felt ours, save occasional vehicles, until Playa Cocles' bike rush—tourists and one-handed surfers heading home. After 8 hours and 28 km, we returned sun-kissed and saddle-sore, grinning all the way. A truly life-affirming day.
Further Reading: Is it Safe to Travel in Costa Rica?
This expert guide assesses safety in Puerto Viejo and other hotspots, with tips for solo and female travelers—relevant for all visitors, whether solo, in groups, or couples.
