Arenal Volcano and Tabacón Hot Springs: Ultimate Guide to La Fortuna, Costa Rica
During our 2011 visit to Costa Rica, we explored stunning beaches like Montezuma, Playa del Coco, Samara, Santa Teresa, Manuel Antonio, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Punta Uva, and Manzanillo. Our sole mountain excursion was to Monteverde Cloud Forest, but just 100 km away lay La Fortuna and the iconic Arenal Volcano. Thanks to Dani's insistence, we ventured there—and discovered why Arenal is an essential Costa Rica destination.
Must-See: Arenal Volcano
Arriving at night, we couldn't yet see the towering volcano dominating the skyline. At a local travel agency, a bearded Argentine assured us we'd spot Arenal Volcano first thing in the morning—he was spot on. The volcano defines the region, from La Fortuna town to Arenal Volcano National Park, inspiring countless hotel and restaurant names.
Some call La Fortuna 'too touristy,' but given its history, it's inevitable. In 1968, after centuries of dormancy, Arenal erupted violently, destroying Tabacón village. Subsequent eruptions kept it active with glowing lava until recent years of quiet. Heed the town's warning signs about potential hazards.
The agency rep, learning we had a rental car, suggested self-guided visits over tours—a game-changer. We hiked Arenal Volcano National Park in the morning (15 km from town) and hit La Fortuna Waterfall in the afternoon.
Vibrant toucans and birds flew overhead as we descended 400+ steps to the waterfall's base. The thundering cascade was mesmerizing, feeding a serene, swimmable river—perfect for cooling off, though chilly by late afternoon. Climbing back up, we marveled at the mystical volcano, powerful falls, and lush greenery, encapsulating Costa Rica's natural wonders like nowhere else.
Must-See: Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort
After hiking, we craved relaxation in geothermal hot springs. La Fortuna's volcanic activity offers many options, but Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort stands out. This five-star hotel is world-renowned, often ranked among the top spa resorts and hot springs globally—voted #4 Hotel Spa in Latin America by Travel + Leisure readers in 2011.
Its appeal is clear: natural mineral pools (25-38°C/71-100°F) fed by the Tabacón River wind through lush gardens, creating semi-private, steamy oases. The adults-only Shangri-La area offers plush loungers and soothing music amid rushing waters. We soaked pool-to-pool, massaged under waterfalls amid rainforest views, with Blue Morpho butterflies and lizards nearby.
Beyond pools, restaurants, and bars (including a swim-up), the Grand Spa features open-air treatments like volcanic mud wraps, coconut exfoliations, meditation trails, and temazcal steam rituals.
Plan for a full day—the $95 day pass (unlimited springs access, lunch, and dinner) is worthwhile ($85 for meals only, $65 springs only). Hotel guests get one complimentary treatment; others pay extra for spa services.
Travel Tips for La Fortuna / Arenal, Costa Rica
Rent a Car
We drove from Samara Beach, winding around scenic Lake Arenal—evoking Scotland's lochs amid impending rainforest.
In La Fortuna, sites are spread out but roads are straightforward. A car ensures flexibility; we dropped ours off fee-free near the airport.
Tailor Your Perfect Trip
With mature tourism infrastructure, options span luxury resorts to backpacker hostels. We mixed independence—self-guided sites, local 'sodas' (Costa Rican eateries), and stays at four-star Mountain Paradise Lodge—with a Tabacón splurge. Full packages or budget stays abound for all travelers.
