Is Kenya's Coast Safe to Visit? A Traveler's Guide to Diani Beach and Beyond
Kenya's coastline boasts pristine white-sand beaches and turquoise waters that have enchanted travelers for years. While past terrorist incidents in Nairobi, Mombasa, and northern coastal areas impacted tourism, much of the coast remains as stunning and serene as ever—now with fewer crowds for an even more enjoyable experience.
As I was powerfully towed through the water, my focus was solely on mastering the enormous kite overhead, oblivious to my instructor's firm grip keeping me submerged. My face lit up with effortless smiles and bursts of laughter.
Kitesurfing lessons in the shallows of Diani Beach, Kenya. Image by Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
This was my inaugural kitesurfing session at Chui Adventure Centre on Diani Beach, a prime south coast spot renowned for its reliable trade winds and growing popularity in this exhilarating sport. Having advanced from practicing with a small kite on the sand to body-dragging in the ocean with a full-size one, my instructor's strong hold on my harness prevented any premature launches. Though soaring high appealed, I was content observing local pros effortlessly gliding over the Indian Ocean from the iconic Forty Thieves Beach Bar during lunch.
Yet, the expansive white sands struck me as unusually empty. Earlier, at Leopard Beach Resort's vast open-air dining area, I'd presumed others were already beach-bound. Contrast this with Sarova Salt Lick Safari Lodge nights earlier, buzzing with Europeans and Kenyans post-safari in Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary or Tsavo West National Park. The sparse crowds offer bliss for visitors but highlight tourism's challenges.
Diani Beach, Kenya. Image by Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet.
Though most al-Shabaab-linked attacks targeted Nairobi—like the devastating 2013 Westgate Mall incident—the coast suffered the steepest tourism decline. Even after the UK FCO's May 2014 statement excluding Diani from no-travel zones, operators like Thomson and First Choice evacuated guests due to warnings for Mombasa Island and beaches north of Diani.
These followed Mombasa explosions, including one killing four at a bus stop. Diani saw a January 2014 nightclub grenade attack injuring 10.
My brief Mombasa stay limited insights, but Diani days—including a village bike tour with locals—revealed warmth and normalcy, save for quiet beaches. The same held traveling south to Shimoni, Wasini Island, and Kisite Marine National Park.
These resemble torches but are straws (with blue fabric filters) for sipping palm wine in Diani village. Image by Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
Under Kisite's calm cerulean waters, marine life buzzed: octopuses darted, rays erupted from the seafloor, and fish schooled through coral. No dolphins appeared for me, but August–October brings humpback whales to Shimoni Channel. The refreshing waters eased the heat, tempting a pier jump in Shimoni post-lunch on Wasini Island.
A diving and snorkeling site at Kisite Marine National Park, Kenya. Image by Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
Funzi Island, a mangrove haven between Shimoni and Diani, epitomizes relaxation. Funzi Keys Resort owners quip guests turn 'funzied' after a day. Options abound—sailing, deep-sea fishing, river trips, canoeing—but lounging with powdery sand sufficed. A mesmerizing thunderstorm capped my first evening beach dinner.
From Diani to Kisite, this coastal stretch delivered natural splendor and secure, memorable adventures—like feeling supported under the kite.
Sunset on Funzi Island. Image courtesy of The Funzi Keys.
Traveling to Kenya? Essential Safety Advice
South Coast: Diani to Kisite Marine National Park
The FCO does not advise against travel here. Fly direct from Nairobi to Diani, bypassing Mombasa Island and A14 north of Tiwi Beach (FCO no-travel zones). Moi International Airport has no warnings.
North Coast: Kilifi to Lamu
No FCO warnings. Safe north of Lamu to Paté Island; avoid further north near Somalia. Mpeketoni attack (56km southwest of Lamu) killed 48 in June 2014.
Nairobi
Most areas and airports (Jomo Kenyatta, Wilson) safe. Avoid Eastleigh and low-income zones.
Masai Mara & Safari Destinations
No warnings for Masai Mara, Amboseli, Aberdares, Hell’s Gate, Lake Nakuru, Samburu, or Laikipia conservancies.
Somalia Border & Garissa
Avoid within 60km of Somalia and Garissa District.
Check current updates at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/Kenya. Always verify latest advisories before travel.
Matt Phillips is Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for sub-Saharan Africa, based in London. Follow Matt on Twitter.
