Epic Iceland Road Trip Part 3: Unmissable Northern Highlights from Dettifoss to Mývatn
After exploring the Golden Circle's geysers and waterfalls, southern Iceland's glaciers and black-sand beaches, and the dramatic Eastern Fjords, I wondered if northern Iceland could surpass these wonders. Iceland never disappoints—stunning vistas await around every corner.
The north boasts the highest concentration of breathtaking sights. Our self-drive Ring Road itinerary included a rewarding detour to the Mývatn Peninsula, home to highlights like the majestic Goðafoss waterfall, the steaming geothermal fields of Hverir, and the eerie rock formations of Dimmuborgir.
With so much to see—plus time for hot springs (we chose Mývatn Nature Baths over the Blue Lagoon; more on that soon)—we added an extra night near Húsavík instead of pushing on immediately.
Traversing the vast, uninhabited Möðrudalur Valley felt otherworldly, like driving on Mars. We veered off the Ring Road onto Road 864, leading to Dettifoss waterfall, Ásbyrgi Canyon, the fishing village of Húsavík, and back to Laugar for the night.
Dettifoss Waterfall
Leaving the Ring Road, we hit our first unpaved stretch—surprising for such a iconic site, but our Volkswagen rental handled it effortlessly. No need for a larger vehicle. Hours in remote no-man's-land highlighted Iceland's sparse population. With no cell service and few cars, I hoped for no flat tires.
Thanks to our detailed Icelandic Farm Holidays itinerary, we filled up in Egilsstaðir, the last station before the desolate valley.
The drive post-valley was the least scenic, but podcasts and Aziz Ansari's Modern Romance audiobook kept us entertained.
Finally, Europe's most powerful waterfall: Dettifoss. Its force hits immediately—93,000+ gallons (363,400 liters) crash down 148 feet (45m) high and 328 feet (100m) wide each second. Unlike gentler falls elsewhere, it mesmerized us.
The Jökulsá á Fjöllum river carved Jökulsá Canyon. With more time, we'd hike to Selfoss (upstream) and Hafragilsfoss (downstream)—3 hours total, well-marked trails.
Ásbyrgi Canyon
Next, horseshoe-shaped Ásbyrgi: 2+ miles (3.5km) long, 0.6 miles (1km) wide, 328 feet (100m) deep. We explored the floor via short hikes to serene ponds Botnstjörn and Leirtjörn amid steep cliffs—eerie silence prevailed.
Opposite stands Eyjan rock; climb it (follow signs from parking) for panoramic views. Longer option: 2-day, 22-mile (35km) hike to Dettifoss via Jökulsárgljúfur. Limited time meant sacrifices.
Sunset hit en route to Húsavík. Winter travelers: Shorten stops to avoid dark drives, especially unpaved sections.
Northern Lights
In Laugar, clear skies gifted us the Aurora Borealis—dancing greens outside at 12:30am. I roused my companion for photos, but my tripod failed. No regrets; witnessing it live trumped imperfect shots.
This farmhouse image captures it (not mine).
Lake Mývatn
Early start circled Lake Mývatn, formed 2,300 years ago in a geothermal eruption. Endless photo ops, rich birdlife—marred only by swarming flies (unique to here).
Dimmuborgir Lava Field
Otherworldly pillars, arches, and formations from ancient lava. Hike trails weave through climbable sections (most fragile). Game of Thrones fans: Season 3 filming location.
Hverir Geothermal Fields
Visible from afar: steaming vents, bubbling mud pots, colorful soils near Námaskarð Pass. Fascinating yet hazardous—stay back from scalding fumaroles. Sulfur stench aside, alien-like.
Mývatn Nature Baths
Highlight: Relaxing in mineral pools (97–104°F/36–40°C). Preferred over crowded Blue Lagoon (4x visitors; entry $45–$55 USD). Ours: ISK 4,100 (~$32 USD) incl. beer/steam rooms—uncrowded, scenic.
Compare: Blue Lagoon vs. Mývatn Nature Baths. Massage jets post-driving? Bliss.
Tip: Open till 10pm winter/ midnight summer—prime for Northern Lights viewing!
Goðafoss Waterfall
Final stop: Goðafoss (33ft/10m high, 100ft/30m wide)—majestic width wows. Quick Ring Road detour.
Mývatn topped our trip, but northwest gems like Snæfellsnes Peninsula (Iceland in miniature) await future visits.
Sjáumst bráðlega, Heillandi Ísland!
See you soon, enchanting Iceland!
Planning Iceland? Budget tips before you go.
More road trip: Part I | Part II (+ driving tips). Watch video below.
