Via Amerina Hike: Part II Highlights – Ancient Paths, Medieval Villages, and Arrival in Rome
Continued from Walking Through Italy: Highlights from the Via Amerina, Part I – my pilgrimage trek from Assisi to Rome.
The Via Amerina Trek Continues
Refreshed after the initial stage from Castel dell’Aquila to Amelia, a restful night’s sleep, and a classic Italian breakfast of cappuccino and fresh pastry, we set off for Orte, about 10 miles (17 km) south. Traversing vineyards and fields, we climbed hills with steady determination. Along this stretch of the Via Amerina, an open-air chapel reminded us this was a sacred pilgrimage, not just a countryside ramble.
Orte: A Captivating Medieval Hilltop Gem
The final ascent to Orte was the toughest: the town crowned a dramatic tuff cliff ahead. With weary legs, we reached the Latium region, entering through ancient stone gates into a medieval wonder. After resting in the piazza amid a flag-twirling display, we explored Orte’s underground network of Roman tunnels, caverns, and cisterns—accessible via guided tours.
Beyond its subterranean relics, Orte enchants with narrow lanes, imposing stone facades, and timeless charm. Five miles south, Vasanello boasts a quaint castle and a 13th-century Romanesque bell tower built from Via Amerina stones.
Highlights included the Necropoli di Morticelli tombs carved in tuff and the Forre di Corchiano gorge along Rio Fratta, featuring an intact Roman arched bridge and Byzantine caves—a stark contrast to Umbria’s rolling hills.
Natural Wonders of Latium
Thick forests enveloped us as we entered the Forre di Corchiano, part of the 254-hectare WWF L’Oasi di Pian Sant’Angelo natural monument, celebrated for its biodiversity and archaeological treasures.
A short detour took us to Civita Castellana, 4 miles (6 km) east of Falerii Novi. Highlights: its charming centro storico, the stunning Duomo with 1210 Cosmatesque facade and geometric mosaics, and Forte Sangallo housing an Etruscan museum.
The next day, a lovely 7.5-mile (12 km) walk through hazelnut orchards—destined for Ferrero chocolates—led to Falerii Novi’s intact Roman gate and well-preserved Santa Maria church.
Treading the Original Roman Road
The famed Cavo degli Zucchi section features tombs carved into towering tuff cliffs, with original Roman basalt paving—complete with ancient wagon ruts—excavated over decades. Spanning 1.3 miles (2 km), it leads to 196 Faliscan graves (of Greek origin) between here and Cava Foce Tre Ponti Necropolis.
En route to Nepi, Castel Sant’Elia overlooks the 656-ft (200 m) deep Suppetonia Valley. Its Basilica, built over a Diana temple, holds mosaics and frescoes; nearby, the Sanctuary of Santa Maria ad Rupes connects via a 144-step hermit-carved tunnel.
Nepi’s Catacombs and Fortress
Nepi welcomes with cobblestone streets and a 12th-century cathedral. Climb Castello Borgia’s tower for panoramic views of Monte Soratte. The 5th-century Santa Savinilla Catacombs reveal remarkably preserved graves—one of Europe’s most striking underground sites.
Detour to Artsy Calcata
Off-trail, Calcata—a volcanic rock perch near Rome—captivated instantly. Nearly abandoned in the 1930s due to cliff instability, it revived in the 1960s with artists drawn to its mystical vibe and labyrinthine alleys. Today, galleries, shops, and cafes thrive amid weekend crowds. A perfect overnight or artist residency spot.
The Final Push to Rome
Time-short, we skipped Nepi to Rome (via Campagnano di Roma and La Storta) for the Insugherata Nature Park alternative: 8.7 miles (14 km) of serene trails avoiding busy Via Cassia, rejoining near Piazza Igea.
St. Peter’s first view from Monte Mario was magical.
Papal Audience in St. Peter’s Square
Timing for Wednesday’s papal audience amplified the triumph. Amid global pilgrims, the Pope’s blessing created an unforgettable, spiritual close—religious or not.
Exploring Rome’s Eternal Charms
Post-trek, I roamed Trastevere and icons like the Colosseum, Pantheon, Forum, and Trevi Fountain—tossing my coin for a return. Rest and explore if it’s your first Rome visit.
Experience the Via Amerina as a Day Trip from Rome!
Hiking the full Via Amerina demands planning—no English guidebooks exist, sparse accommodations. For a taste, Kelle Terre offers guided day trips from Rome, including ancient basalt sections and transport. Details here.
