Beach Hopping in Mexico's Riviera Nayarit: Exploring Sayulita, San Pancho, and Puerto Vallarta
The rain had cleared as my bus emerged from Guadalajara's grey days, revealing lush jungle and distant blue skies. I was heading to Mexico's Riviera Nayarit, a 200-mile Pacific coastline rivaling the Riviera Maya, stretching from historic San Blas to bustling Nuevo Vallarta.
After months exploring Mexico City, Veracruz, Oaxaca, the Yucatan, and Isla Mujeres, Riviera Nayarit was my next adventure. With limited time, I focused on three standout beaches: surf-centric Sayulita, relaxed San Pancho, and vibrant Puerto Vallarta—perfect for blending beach life with urban energy.
Four hours from Guadalajara along Highway 200, the bus dropped me in Sayulita. From chilly morning rain to midday heat, I hiked to my guesthouse amid colorful hillside homes. Just minutes from the beach, I changed into swimwear and hit the wide, white sands, soaking up sun after Guadalajara's downpours while watching picnicking families and surfers.
Sayulita's bay delivers consistent waves, drawing surfers and schools. Morning runs revealed an ocean alive with boards. Strolling palm-lined streets, I admired vibrant houses, fiesta flags, and the well-preserved white church in the zócalo. Designated a Pueblo Mágico by Mexico's Secretariat of Tourism in recent years (program launched 2001), it earns the title through natural beauty, architecture, and cultural charm.
Though touristy with foreign-owned eateries and boutiques, Sayulita retains authentic charm—mom-and-pop stalls beside expat spots. Surfers pioneered it two decades ago; now villas dot the hills. I worked from Yah-Yah coffee shop, hearing tales of seasonal North Americans wintering here.
Hikes yielded gems: Playa Los Muertos (south via dirt road past fishing boats and Villa Amor), near a colorful cemetery—pristine and calm. Further effort led to Playa Carricitos: 45 minutes through jungle (follow right forks), a vast golden-sand bay with powerful waves, nearly deserted.
An hour south by bus, Puerto Vallarta contrasted sharply: skyscrapers, cruise ports, malls fading into colonial Old Town (Zona Romántica). Cobblestone streets, hibiscus blooms, galleries, bars, and microbreweries charmed. Playa de los Muertos, PV's top beach, fronts the malecón promenade—ideal for runs.
PV shines as Mexico's gay capital, with Zona Romántica packed with bars and clubs. Beaches buzz with energy; the pier at Muertos offers epic bay views, especially at sunset when locals dive. Upgraded to a luxe condo (Pinnacle 220 via Booking.com) with rooftop pool, fast WiFi, and amenities—perfect after Sayulita's rustic vibe.
North to San Pancho (San Francisco), sleepier than Sayulita: wider beach, fewer crowds, mostly surfers. Boutique hotels and rentals dominate; it feels authentically Mexican, sans bohemian flair. Sunset beers watched pros shred waves.
A jungle hike linked Sayulita to San Pancho: scenic coastal paths, spider sightings, open estate gate to cliffs overlooking beaches. Epic success!
Revisited Sayulita: tacos at El Itacate (Thomas Keller-approved), SUP (host of 2015 WSUPPC), Playa Carricitos (fenced but accessible). PV redux favored Old Town amenities.
Riviera Nayarit captivates, though Riviera Maya edges it for me (cenotes, ruins). More awaits: San Blas, Yelapa. Hasta pronto!
