Phu Quoc: Vietnam's Phuket? Honest Review of Beaches, Development, and Insider Tips
As my taxi cruised down Phu Quoc's main street into a tourist hub lined with hotels, casinos, and restaurants, doubts crept in. Had I arrived too late? Was this once-serene paradise now a mass-tourism hotspot, as some blogs warned?
Even before checking into my guesthouse, it was clear Phu Quoc had evolved beyond the tranquil escape in outdated guides.
I based myself in Long Beach, the island's liveliest stretch with abundant accommodations, dining, and direct beach access. This 20km sandy expanse runs along the southern western shore, conveniently near Duong Dong town and its vibrant night market.
My first two days stayed local, with long walks along the beach. It was pleasant but unremarkable, overshadowed by resorts deploying endless rows of sun loungers for sun-seeking Western tourists.
The main street buzzed with Russian-speaking vendors; menus and pharmacy signs in Cyrillic highlighted the package-tour crowd.
The night market disappointed compared to Thailand's—seafood-heavy repetition from vendor to vendor, though expected on an island.
On day three, I rented a scooter to explore further. Past scooter mishaps in Asia made me cautious, but Phu Quoc's vast scale demanded mobility—buses are scarce, taxis limited outside key areas, and spontaneous stops impossible without wheels.
Renting in Asia is casual: Ask the guesthouse owner, pick from weathered bikes for 120,000 VND (~US$5), get keys—no license check.
I headed to town for a vegan Vietnamese breakfast, easing into traffic before empty northern roads opened up.
First stop: Ong Lang Beach, northwest of Duong Dong. A wrong turn revealed authentic village life—markets, fishermen, no tourists.
Ong Lang was paradise: Few beach bars, sparse loungers, vast empty sand. A quick smoothie and sunbathe, then northward.
Next, Ganh Dau Beach in the northwest corner—over 40 minutes away, underscoring the island's size. En route, the massive Vinpearl Amusement and Safari Park jarred: Thrill rides, water slides, 2,000 animals on a tropical isle? Empty during my passes.
Skipping distant Sao Beach, I hit Thom Beach on the northeast tip—quiet, low tourist traffic. Following Vietnam Chronicle's guide (similar tastes), I refreshed at family-run Local Beach Bar, best at high tide.
Day ended at Rory’s Wreck (under construction), a ship-shaped bar relocating from Long Beach. Quieter east coast vibe beckoned for more.
Next morning, pro-scooter me targeted Sao Beach—Phu Quoc's star: Powdery white sand, turquoise shallows, palm-fringed bay.
But reports warned of ruin: Overdevelopment, trash, jet skis. Vietnam Chronicle detailed the decline from backpacker haven to cluttered mess.
Arriving 8:30am, parking was huge but empty. Northern end pristine with palms; beyond loungers, trash piled up—bars clean only their patches.
Southern end similar. Still stunning: Fine sand, endless blues, wadeable waters. I swung in the sea, sipped iced coffee (25,000 VND/~US$1), escaping crowds by noon as buses arrived.
Northbound along east coast 'road beaches,' I detoured to touristy Ham Ninh fishing village—shell stalls, floating eateries.
East coast: Boutique resorts with beach access via purchase, not public strands. Lunched at Rocks Beach Bungalows—stunning design, pool preferred over rocky shore.
Kiki Coconut Beach: Rustic bungalows, sandy stretch under palms. Then 'Rest Stop' at new The Pier Resort—free infinity pool, rock bar, epic coconut coffee. Overwater bungalows (island's only?) but east coast not ideal for them. Divine quiet spot.
East road newly paved spurs elegant small resorts, unlike west's giants. Dining limited vs. Long Beach's variety, but scooter suits adventurers.
Final quest: Snorkeling, touted as Vietnam's best. Mini-bus south (avoiding new cable car zone).
World's longest sea cable car (8km, US$458M) links to Hon Thom—stunning views, but concrete mars greenery. Price slashed from US$22 to US$6.50. Draws crowds beyond beaches; water park added.
Hon Thom: Pristine beach restaurants, snorkel launches—accessible pre-cable by boat. In UNESCO biosphere, development sparks overtourism fears.
Airport (2012) exploded visitors: 239k to 4.5M by 2019 (vs. 107k locals). Phuket parallels: Malls, mega-resorts, safaris, cable cars over elephants/ziplines. Waste, sewage issues evident; snorkeling revealed dead coral, few fish.
Phu Quoc isn't the remote idyll anymore—package tours dominate. Yet northern beaches remain serene. Expect infrastructure for cheap getaways, not isolation.
Phu Quoc Practical Information
Getting to Phu Quoc
Daily budget flights from mainland Vietnam via Vietnam Airlines, Vietjet, Jetstar (~US$35). Use Skyscanner for comparisons. Direct Asian flights; high season (Dec-Mar) to London (~£350 return).
Ferries from Rach Gia: 2.5hrs, VND330,000 (~US$14). Schedules: 7am, 8:10am, 10:40am, 1:10pm—check Super Dong Ferries.
Visa for Phu Quoc
Visa-free up to 30 days if staying only on Phu Quoc (Aussies excluded). For mainland, see e-visa guide: How Much Does It Cost To Travel In Vietnam?
ATMs in Phu Quoc
Limited outside Duong Dong/Long Beach. Withdraw at airport/town. Cash essential for small spots.
Where to Stay in Phu Quoc
Long Beach (lively):
- Thanh Kieu Beach Resort: Beachfront bungalows/pool, from US$88 (breakfast).
- Cassia Cottage: Gardens/3 pools/yoga, from US$220 (buffet).
- Anja Beach Resort & Spa: Private beach/pool, from US$105 (buffet).
- Seashells Phu Quoc Hotel & Spa: Modern/infinity pool, from US$89 (buffet).
- Melica Resort: Pool/near beach, from US$26.
North (tranquil):
- Wild Beach Resort: Eco-bungalows/private beach, from US$48 (breakfast).
- Gold Coast Resort: Pool/private beach, from US$89 (buffet).
East Coast (quiet):
- Dugong Resort: Pool/private beach, from US$45 (breakfast).
- Lotus Home: Overwater options, from US$50/US$99.
- Kiki Coconut Beach Resort: Beachfront, from US$40 (breakfast).
- The Pier Resort: Infinity pool/overwater, from US$78/US$117 (breakfast).
- Mango Beach Resort: Pool, from US$76 (breakfast).
Where to Eat in Phu Quoc
- Duong Dong Night Market: Seafood/vegan from 6pm.
- The Famous Italian: Authentic pasta, Long Beach.
- The Rock Corner: Beach cocktails/burgers.
- The Embassy: Smoothie bowls/breakfasts.
- Ganesh/Spice Indian: Long Beach curries.
- Banh Mi LAM: Cheap sandwiches.
- Mango Bay Restaurant: Vietnamese, Ong Lang.
- Rory’s Wreck: Western/seafood/drinks.
- Rest Stop: Coconut coffee at The Pier.
