Unexpected Charms of Rach Gia, Vietnam: A Traveler's Delight in the Mekong Delta
Rach Gia was meant to be a quick layover en route from Phu Quoc to Can Tho. Initially, I planned a morning ferry from Phu Quoc, followed by a taxi straight to the bus station for the next ride into the Mekong Delta heartland. But reconsidering the grueling 7-hour journey (30 minutes to the port, 2.5 hours on the ferry, 30 minutes by taxi, and 3.5 hours by bus), I opted to relax. With time on my side, staying overnight allowed more island time and a stress-free transition.
Planning a Stay in Rach Gia
Quick research revealed Rach Gia's second-highest-rated hotel, a $10-per-night spot across from the ferry port (the top-rated was an $11 homestay). The intriguing "8 free taxi rides per day" perk sealed it, though I wondered about their business model.
I prefer walking, so I skipped the taxis and explored on foot.
Top Things to Do in Rach Gia
Though light on major sights, Rach Gia offered intriguing spots from the guidebook. Nguyen Trung Truc Temple, a 5-minute walk from my hotel and praised by Lonely Planet, was my starting point—a haven for temple enthusiasts.
Dedicated to Vietnamese hero Nguyen Trung Truc, who raided French forces in the 1860s by burning a warship and was executed in Rach Gia's marketplace, the temple boasts a central altar sculpture, intricate details, dragon-shaped topiaries, and an altar embedded in an ancient tree trunk.
Crossing the nearby footbridge over one of the city's two rivers, I was pleasantly surprised. Far from the guidebook's drab port-city portrayal, Rach Gia charmed with tree-lined streets, blooming sidewalk pots, roaming chickens, open-air cafes, and shaded spots for iced coffee.
Dining in Rach Gia
Google Maps led me to Lau Chay Hoa Sen, a vegetarian hot pot spot—ideal for plant-based eaters like me. Starving and solo, I ordered a full share.
As the family prepared my setup, I puzzled over the veggies. Grandpa stepped in, using gestures to chop and add them to the bubbling broth of tofu and mushrooms. No English spoken, but smiles bridged the gap. He demonstrated rice noodles and herb mixing. The family watched joyfully from afar as I savored the fresh, flavorful meal—another Vietnamese highlight. I left stuffed and thankful.
Relaxed Vibes and Warm Locals in Rach Gia
Rach Gia's residents exuded exceptional warmth: cafe greetings, kids' enthusiastic 'hellos,' scooter waves. Unlike Saigon's urban rush or Phu Quoc's tourist fatigue (Russians drew complaints), here I felt uniquely welcome—likely the only Westerner ('mỹ trắng'). Spotting another sparked rare excitement.
Non-touristy bliss allowed aimless wandering, people-watching on Nguyen Trung Truc Street's boutiques and street stalls offering banh mi and noodles. An iced coffee stop mysteriously yielded three drinks.
Lac Long Boulevard, a wide four-lane path to the waterfront, featured trendy cafes rivaling Seoul or Bangkok. It ends at Park Cong Vien Bai Duong (Ocean Beach Park) with seaside stone tables for sea views—stunning at sunset.
I lingered before Eden, a stylish Korean coffee shop nearby, recommended by the hotel alongside Boulevard Cafe's twinkling courtyard lights.
For nightlife, Ton Duc Thang buzzes north to the bridge with massive karaoke bars (casino-sized) and DJ bars playing house music—seated crowds sipping beers. Quieter? Cafe Seaview offers river views, coffee, and full menus.
At Phuong Trang bus office, Google Translate secured my Can Tho ticket with free hotel pickup—proving smartphones' travel magic.
I'd extend my stay but eyed the Mekong Delta next.
Practical Tips for Visiting Rach Gia, Vietnam
Buses to & from Rach Gia
The bus station is in Rach Soi, south of town (25 minutes from central hotels). Check Travelfish.org for schedules; it also covers ferries.
Ferry from Rach Gia to Phu Quoc
Multiple daily options: passenger, car, slow, fast. Travelfish provides timetables and prices.
Where to Stay in Rach Gia
No hostels during my visit, but now:
- STAY Hostel: Doubles $11, dorms $6.
- Kiet Hong Hotel: My basic choice near ferry; doubles ~$12.
- Nho Hotel: New (2020), ferry-adjacent; doubles from $9.
