Ottawa Unlocked: Your Ultimate Guide to Exploring Canada's Capital via the Rideau Canal
Canada's capital, Ottawa, is celebrated for its pristine streets, lush parks, and exceptionally friendly residents, instantly putting visitors at ease. Yet, the key to truly unlocking Ottawa's charm lies in its historic locks.
Keep Out: Constructing the Rideau Canal
While Ottawa welcomes all today, its origins were defensive. Nearly 200 years ago, British Colonel John By was tasked with safeguarding Canada from potential American incursions via the St. Lawrence Seaway. During our summer visit, as an American exploring Ontario, I realized I wasn't the first to venture here.
Colonel By oversaw the construction of the Rideau Canal, bypassing the vulnerable St. Lawrence River near New York to secure supply lines between Montreal and Kingston's British naval base. The route followed the Ottawa River to Bytown—named after the colonel, this swampy outpost evolved into modern Ottawa—then southwest via the canal to Lake Ontario.
Today, these eight impressive locks serve as an ideal gateway to Ottawa's attractions. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Locks 1-8 descend the Rideau Canal 30 feet to the Ottawa River. Overlooking them are the grand Parliament Hill and the Fairmont Château Laurier, evoking an old-world ambiance. Stroll the lockside path for relaxation, and visit the Bytown Museum—named for Colonel By—for insights into this engineering feat.
Cycling Ottawa's Pathways
To cover more ground, we rented bikes from Rentabike, just 50 meters from the museum. The owner's expert tips in hand, we mounted cruiser bikes and pedaled onward. We cruised up the canal past Dow's Lake paddle boats, pausing at the rushing Hog's Back Falls.
Just 30 minutes out, we escaped urban bustle into rural farmland at the Central Experimental Farm—an urban oasis of crops, meadows, red barns, and livestock. Clear signage guided us back; westward, the path joined the Ottawa River, revealing Jean-Félix Ceprano's inspiring rock art—a hidden gem we'd have missed without bikes.
Ottawa is a cyclist's paradise, with over 200 km of bike paths and courteous commuters. In our six-hour ride, we covered just 30 km, savoring the scenery.
BeaverTails, Markets, and River Adventures
Returning the bikes, we lunched at ByWard Market, Canada's oldest continuous public market (est. 1826 by Colonel By), spanning four blocks of eateries, pubs, and specialty shops. We browsed a cheese shop stocking even our favorite Norwegian variety but resisted—saving room for BeaverTails.
These fried pastry delights shine in winter with coffee, post-ice-skating on the world's longest rink: the frozen Rideau Canal (7 km). In summer (mid-May onward), boats navigate the locks daily toward the Ottawa River. Once log-laden, it's now alive with speedboats, kayaks, yachts, and upstream whitewater (90 minutes away).
For a river-city combo, we joined the Lady Dive Amphibus tour: wheels through historic streets, then a splashdown near Britannia Yacht Club. We cruised past the Canadian Museum of History—a vast exhibit spanning 1,000 years, plus kids' museum and IMAX (allow 1-2 days).
Riverside, the National Gallery boasts world-class permanent collections. Budget travelers: free Thursdays 5-8 p.m. Public art abounds, from Oscar Peterson's statue (Elgin/Albert) to Parliament Hill's 'Women Are Persons!' and Queen Elizabeth II monuments, highlighting Canadian women's history.
Post-cruise, we dashed to Parliament Hill for statues and the free Centre Block tour (daily; more in summer), illuminating Canada's political story.
Across the Ottawa River
On the river, the Canada-U.S. border felt invisible—no guards, no passports. We stayed within city limits.
Yet, the Ottawa River marks English-French Canada's cultural divide, evident in signage. French snippets in Ottawa peaked on our Gatineau Park (Quebec) day trip—rusty French for lunch, but hikes needed none.
Follow the Rideau Canal
Ottawa's green spaces flank the 202 km Rideau Canal. Boat the full 49 locks to Kingston (up to 7 days); we cycled and drove, via backroads and gems like Merrickville and Perth. Trails suit hikers, bikers, skiers.
By boat, bike, car, or kayak, Ottawa's locks unlock its soul.
For more on the Rideau Canal, visit the Rideau Heritage Route.
