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Ecuador's Tren Crucero: Luxurious Ride on the Revived 'Railway in the Sky'

Journey through the majestic Avenue of the Volcanoes and tackle the legendary Devil's Nose aboard Ecuador's upscale Tren Crucero, or 'Cruise Train'. This scenic route winds from Andean Quito to Pacific-coast Guayaquil. Launched in spring 2021, it signals the triumphant revival of a historic railway.

A Storied Past


Ecuador s Tren Crucero: Luxurious Ride on the Revived Railway in the Sky

The Tren Crucero glides through Andean farmland between Riobamba and Colta stations. Image by Amar Grover / Lonely Planet.

Dubbed the 'cursed railway' in the late 1800s, early efforts to link Ecuador's lowlands and highlands faced relentless challenges: diseases like malaria, snakebites, floods, storms, and landslides destroyed progress yearly. Quito and Guayaquil remained isolated, reliant on mules and carts.

President Eloy Alfaro, the 'Old Warrior,' pressed on with American contractors, the Harman brothers, completing the line in 1908. Trains ran reliably for decades, but neglect set in, fragmenting service. By the 1970s, roads dominated, reducing rails to a quirky adventure for roof-riding backpackers.

After multimillion-dollar renovations, the full 448km Quito-Guayaquil route now thrives.

The Premium Experience


Ecuador s Tren Crucero: Luxurious Ride on the Revived Railway in the Sky

Vendors at Otavalo's market offering guinea pigs, Ecuador. Image by Amar Grover / Lonely Planet.

Tren Crucero (www.ecuadorbytrain.com) delivers luxury with a 4-day/3-night itinerary including meals and excursions. Faster buses exist for direct travel, but this immersive option shines for day trips or segments. All 54 window seats fill two carriages.

A lounge-bar car offers snacks and drinks, while the highlight is the observation car with sofas and an open-air veranda—perfect for photos, though limited during the Devil's Nose ascent.

Bus transfers access key sites away from tracks. Enjoy restaurant lunches and stays at haciendas and inns.

Journey Highlights


Ecuador s Tren Crucero: Luxurious Ride on the Revived Railway in the Sky

The Tren Crucero descending the Devil's Nose. Image by Amar Grover / Lonely Planet.

Quito's UNESCO-listed historic center—Latin America's best-preserved, per UNESCO since 1978—has transformed from decay to vibrant safety, boosting tourism.

The train departs into the Avenue of the Volcanoes, Alexander von Humboldt's 1802 term for the chain of snow-capped peaks like towering Cotopaxi. Bus to Cotopaxi National Park for grassland walks; visit a rose plantation showcasing Ecuador's floral prowess.

Ascend to 3,609m at Urbina, framed by volcanic summits. Meet Baltazar Uscha, Ecuador's last hielero ('iceman'), harvesting Chimborazo glacier ice.

In Guamote, explore the indigenous Quechua market amid stalls of grains, fruits, textiles—authentic and tourist-free.

The Devil's Nose climax: zigzag tracks conquer a 500m vertical rise in narrow Chanchan Valley, an engineering marvel.

Near Guayaquil, a restored steam locomotive adds nostalgic flair.


Ecuador s Tren Crucero: Luxurious Ride on the Revived Railway in the Sky

Restored steam engine pulling Tren Crucero near Guayaquil. Image by Amar Grover / Lonely Planet.

Accommodation Recommendations

Quito: Luxury: Casa Gangotena (www.casagangotena.com), a restored mansion on Plaza San Francisco. Budget: Hotel Cayman (www.hotelcaymanquito.com), near the old town.

Guayaquil: Luxury: Hotel Oro Verde (www.oroverdehotels.com), central and walkable. Budget: Hotel Jira (no website, 518 Capitán Damián Nájera between Chimborazo and Coronel).

Explore More

Beyond Galápagos, Ecuador entices with diverse adventures. Quito's revival enables multi-stop trips.

Highlands and Haciendas

North of Quito, 17th-century haciendas on volcanic soil offer hikes, horse riding, and Otavalo's famed market. Stay at Hacienda Zuleta (www.haciendazuleta.com) or Hacienda Cusin (www.haciendacusin.com).

Oriente Rainforests

Eastward, Quito flights reach the Amazon-edge Oriente. From Coca via Río Napo, Sacha Lodge (www.sachalodge.com) features canopy walks, towers, trails, wildlife spotting, and night excursions amid howler monkeys and caimans.

Amar Grover is an acclaimed freelance travel writer and photographer specializing in the Indian Subcontinent, Middle East, and North Africa. Follow @samarkandHK.


Ecuador s Tren Crucero: Luxurious Ride on the Revived Railway in the Sky

Discover Ecuador's adventures with Lonely Planet's Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands guide. Browse expert hotels and hostels.


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