Houtong Cat Village: Taiwan's Enchanting Feline Paradise and Easy Day Trip from Taipei
Nestled in the hills of northern Taiwan along the Keelung River, Houtong—a former coal mining village—has become a haven for cat lovers. Mines closed in the 1990s, leaving a dwindling population of a few hundred. In 2008, local enthusiast Peggy Chien shared photos of community efforts to care for stray cats, sparking viral attention that drew visitors, volunteers, and more felines.
Located just 35km east of Taipei in Ruifang District, Houtong transformed into Taiwan's premier cat village in under two years. Today, over 200 cats roam freely, fueling a vibrant tourism scene with cat-themed shops, cafes, and restaurants that attract crowds every weekend.
The Village's Two Halves
Arriving by train, you'll see Houtong divided into two distinct areas. The station side features preserved coal processing machinery, restaurants, a visitor information center (8am-6pm, tel: 02 2497 4143), and a scenic riverside walkway leading to the old miners' dormitory. A covered "cat bridge" behind the station connects to the main cat village, where felines gather among hillside cottages. Cats wander everywhere, complemented by numerous cafes and shops for a full-day adventure.
Cats of Every Kind
From black and ginger to tortoiseshell, calico, white, and gray—slim or plump, bold or bashful—Houtong boasts cats in all varieties. Spot them lounging in flower pots, perched on shelves, climbing steps, leaping from roofs, or napping amid kitty souvenir stalls. Prime viewing spots are along the quieter riverside path east of the station, where they doze under benches or on the cat bridge ledges, away from selfie crowds.
A dedicated volunteer team, supported by veterinarians, ensures the cats' well-being through vaccinations, spaying/neutering, and microchipping for population tracking. Though mostly strays, they're accustomed to humans and well-fed by locals and visitors, often seen in contented slumber.
Cat Etiquette Essentials
Houtong's cats tolerate the attention remarkably well amid chasing, petting, and photos. Cat food is available in shops, but feeding is discouraged—limit to 2-3 small biscuits per cat if insisted. Signs prohibit teasing, overfeeding, and flash photography. Respect boundaries: observe from afar unless they approach, and pet only the friendly ones.
Embrace the Kitty Kitsch
Houtong is a whirlwind of cat mania: meowing 'music' with electronic beats, vendors in cat ears, and feline-themed everything. Must-buys include cat notepads, ceramics, phone covers, coasters, socks, tattoos, ears, fans, mugs, purses, brooches, magnets, and even cat-shaped pineapple cakes. Top picks: artistic postcards featuring local kitties.
Feline-Friendly Dining
Diverse eateries abound. Near the station, hearty noodle and dumpling spots pack out. Cat Village Cafe (behind visitor center, tel: 0933 799541, 9am-5pm, to 6pm weekends) offers riverside seating, excellent coffee, toast, and waffles. For heartier fare, uphill at Walk N’Taste Café (walkntaste.wix.com/walkandtaste): try iced teas in jars, veggie wraps, paninis, breakfasts, and massive salad bowls.
Beyond the Cats
Escape crowds with hikes from visitor center maps. Across the river lies Houtong Jinja, a haunting Japanese Shinto shrine to an earth goddess. Preserved mining sites now house museums with detailed English exhibits on miners' lives—complete with photos, locker contents, and a toy train tunnel ride. Surrounding hills offer trails through tunnels, bridges, and tracks.
Getting There
From Taipei Station, hop on the Yilan Line train (often to Su’ao) and alight at Houtong after about an hour. One-way fare: NT$50. Trains run every 30 minutes daytime; last back at 9pm, but sites close by 6pm. Visit weekdays for a peaceful cat-chilling experience.
