Cruising the Galapagos Islands: My Unforgettable Wildlife Adventure
The Galapagos Islands have long been a dream destination for me. I envisioned remote islands with stunning volcanic landscapes, free-roaming giant tortoises, and marine iguanas. I pictured them largely uninhabited, where wildlife far outnumbered any human residents.
Knowing a cruise was the best way to explore, I imagined sailing between islands, enjoying land excursions, snorkeling, and life aboard a yacht. Weeks ago, I finally flew to the Galapagos, eager to see how reality matched my dreams.
Also read: The Galapagos Islands – Fifteen Things to Know Before You Go
After a two-hour flight from Guayaquil, we landed on Baltra, a small, uninhabited island hosting one of the Galapagos' two airports. From the air, we saw barren reddish terrain below. Baltra features the world’s first “green” airport, powered by renewables like solar, wind, and seawater desalination.
Before leaving, we paid the $100 National Park entry fee and had carry-ons inspected—no fresh produce like apples allowed, to protect the ecosystem. Food is also prohibited on land excursions.
From the airport, a bus took us to the ferry pier for the short crossing to Santa Cruz, the archipelago's second-largest island. Wildlife appeared immediately: a pelican eyed us warily, massive crabs scuttled on the shore, and birds soared overhead. During the 10-minute ride past mangrove islets, spotted eagle rays glided beside the boat.
Just 45 minutes in, I was utterly captivated.
On Santa Cruz, another bus headed inland for our first excursion before boarding the yacht. As we drove from coastal scrub into lush green forest—fresh from a rainstorm—the scent of wet earth and flowers was intoxicating.
Aside from the road and a brief village with banana-flanked homes and a roadside donkey, no human traces marred the wilderness.
Our goal: wild giant tortoises. Veering onto a dirt road, excitement built. Soon, tortoises dotted the grass; our bus navigated around several on the path. Could this paradise be real?!
Initial gasps gave way to constant sightings—dozens everywhere.
At road's end, tortoise heaven: creatures of all sizes grazed indifferently amid tourists.
We lunched at Rancho Manzanillo's open terrace overlooking them. As a vegetarian, I relished my flavorful rice dish.
In wellies, we visited a tortoise pond.
Our naturalist guide—required on every cruise—explained these longest-lived vertebrates exceed 100 years; one reached 152. Some may predate Darwin's 1835 visit. Of 15 original subspecies, 11 remain; whalers decimated numbers to today's 15,000 endangered individuals. They inhabit only Galapagos and Aldabra Atoll.
True giants, they stretch 5 feet (1.5m) and weigh 550 lbs (250kg).
We spent hours observing them eat, rest, and mate from hammocks.
Then to Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz's bustling hub (pop. 12,000), where our yacht awaited.
The 16-guest Majestic impressed: eight cabins, sun deck with Jacuzzi, elegant dining/lounge.
Welcome cocktails preceded dinner. My cozy cabin boasted a comfy bed—essential for night passages.
Post-sunset buffet, we retired early for tomorrow's packed schedule.
At 6am, after minor seasickness, I greeted dawn on deck amid Santiago and Isabela islands, frigate birds overhead.
Serene isolation reigned.
Post-hearty breakfast, wet landing at Santiago—uninhabited since 1950s.
Espumilla Beach evoked first discoverer Fray Tomás de Berlanga: deserted sands, greenery, volcano backdrop.
Turtle nests and swimmers dotted the scene; ghost crabs fled, pelicans and boobies dove.
Snorkeling revealed clear waters, shark, turtle, eagle ray. Kayaking offered seals, boobies, vast sea.
Lunch, Jacuzzi time en route to Bartolomé's Pinnacle Rock.
Stunning lava formations; penguins joined snorkel, plus sharks, rays, fish.
Sunset dinghy cruise capped the day.
Next: Las Bachas Beach, fresh turtle tracks, Sally Lightfoot crabs, lone flamingo.
Snorkel with endangered green sea turtles.
Gourmet meals, including vegetarian options, fueled us.
Puerto Ayora visit: sea lions everywhere.
Farewell dinner, final Kicker Rock snorkel: sharks, sea lions.
Disembark San Cristóbal, tiny plane back.
The Galapagos captivated me; I'll return for more.
