February 2016 Colombia Travel Diary: Lost City Trek, Amazon Adventures & Upcoming Plans
February 2016 was a month of remarkable highs and unexpected challenges during my travels in Colombia. From epic jungle treks to immersive Amazon experiences, it showcased the country's diverse allure—though a hospital visit delayed this roundup.
Where I've Been
I began the month in Santa Marta, using it as a base for a 4-day trek to Colombia's Lost City (Ciudad Perdida). From there, I flew to Bogotá, reconnecting with a travel companion from Santa Marta and later my friend Rease, whom I traveled with in Iceland the previous year. Together, we explored Villa de Leyva, a charming colonial town in the mountains. Returning to Bogotá, I extended my stay, enjoying it far more than anticipated. On a whim, I detoured to the Amazonas region—perhaps drawn by the call of Ayahuasca—far beyond my original itinerary.
What I've Been Up To
Expecting solo travel, I instead shared much of the month with new friends: a group for the Sierra Nevada trek (reuniting with one in Bogotá) and Rease for several days. Now, I'm craving some solo reflection time.
I embraced significant offline periods—both intentional and spontaneous. The planned digital detox during the 4-day trek was refreshing, as was the unplanned one in remote Puerto Nariño on the Amazon, where no connectivity existed despite expectations of 3G. Preparation eases the transition (my sudden disappearance worried friends), but these breaks reinforced the value of disconnecting more often.
Travel unfolded smoothly: the trek became a trip highlight, Santa Marta offered productive downtime, and Bogotá exceeded wary expectations despite cautionary tales. I indulged in the Hilton Bogotá's renowned Sunday brunch, explored Chapinero, danced at El Theatron—South America's largest gay club with free drinks until 2 a.m. for $13.50—visited the Botero Museum, ascended Monserrate for panoramic views, joined street art and city tours, escaped to Villa de Leyva, and ventured to the Amazon (despite illness). Colombia delivered an outstanding month.
Highlights
Ciudad Perdida: Colombia's Lost City
This demanding 4-day trek (completed ahead of the standard 5 days) stands as a pinnacle of my global travels. Ascending 1,200 steps to the ancient ruins amid stunning jungle and mountain vistas was profoundly rewarding, pushing me beyond my comfort zone.
Swimming in the Amazon River
Spotting pink river dolphins made this unforgettable. Life in this roadless, rainforest-immersed region offers a uniquely serene pace, validating my instinctive detour.
The People I've Met
Connections this month outshone my entire Asia trip. South American travelers often exhibit greater maturity, cultural immersion, and depth compared to Southeast Asia's party-focused crowds—fostering stimulating, insightful conversations.
Conducting a 2-Hour Business Meeting in Spanish
A proud milestone. My Spanish revived quickly in Colombia, enabling fluent professional discourse in my third language—honed by prior immersion.
Lowlights
Hospitalization
Symptoms struck abruptly post-dinner: chills, fever, pain, weakness. In Amazonas' heat, I endured a night of sweating and agony. Suspecting Zika, malaria, or dengue, I boated 50 miles to Leticia's hospital. Tests were negative; it was severe flu amid subpar facilities.
Wi-Fi Struggles
Persistent poor connectivity frustrated remote work, echoing issues in the Philippines, Thailand, and Europe. Shared woes with Rease in Bogotá and Villa de Leyva amplified delays; Amazonas internet was nearly unusable.
Balancing Blog and Work
Freelance priorities and disruptions sidelined regular posts. Paid projects take precedence, but consistency matters—aiming for improvement in March.
Noteworthy Happenings
These blur good/bad lines but merit mention.
An Ayahuasca Ceremony
Ayahuasca, an Amazonian plant brew used shamanically for healing and visions, confronts deep fears. Drawn inexplicably to Leticia, I joined a ritual. No profound visions or catharsis ensued—mainly nausea from a potent batch—but details forthcoming in a dedicated post.
My First Haircut in Over Two Years
Overcoming a traumatic 2014 New York experience, I got a $13.50 cut (with premium products) at a top Bogotá salon. Results? Improved, though styling elevates it further.
What's Next
Recovering, I'll continue through Colombia's Zona Cafetera (coffee region), smaller towns, and Medellín—eager for a Pablo Escobar tour post-Narcos buzz, plus reunions. An unforeseen opportunity may pull me to a familiar favorite early (clothing optional—guess where?). Details in March's update.
