Discover Adorable Tarsiers and Iconic Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Philippines
I traveled to Bohol, Philippines, specifically to encounter its famous tarsiers. 
These tiny primates, with their enormous eyes, resemble endearing mini gremlins and reportedly inspired Steven Spielberg's E.T. design.
Bohol, the 10th largest island in the Philippines, offers beautiful scenery, beaches on nearby Panglao Island, and these unique attractions. However, it remains off the main tourist circuit. My visit provided my first glimpse of authentic Filipino island life beyond party destinations or Manila, in the laid-back city of Tagbilaran. 
Determined to visit both tarsiers and Chocolate Hills affordably, I skipped pricey guided tours (around PHP 2,500 or US$56) and used public transport as recommended by Lonely Planet: jeepney to the tarsiers, then bus to the hills. 
Jeepneys, the iconic public transport—extended jeeps with benches for 20-30 passengers—took me toward the sanctuary. A motorbike offer tempted me, but as a solo female traveler, I opted for the safer, fuller jeepney.
After 45 minutes, I arrived at the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary near Corella. These smallest primates, native to Bohol, Borneo, Sulawesi, and Sumatra, are critically endangered due to deforestation. 
Nocturnal by nature, they sleep in trees during the day. A guide led a short forest walk, pointing out these elusive creatures. Two tarsiers perched low, their huge eyes meeting mine in a moment of pure wonder. 
Key facts: Tarsier eyes are the largest relative to body size among mammals, heavier than their brains. Newborns can climb trees within a day. They fare poorly in captivity, often self-harming when caged. The 15-minute visit felt brief, but witnessing them in their habitat was unforgettable. 
Returning by jeepney to Tagbilaran, I caught a bus to Carmen for the Chocolate Hills—90 minutes through lush rainforests, rice fields, and villages. The conductor dropped me near the first hills, their distinctive rounded shapes emerging dramatically. 
A local offered a motorbike tour (PHP 300/US$6.75), essential for exploring the 1,300+ hills spanning 50 sq km. We climbed steep slopes for breathtaking views, visited scenic spots, and ended at the main viewpoint, ideal in late afternoon light. 
In February's wet season, they were vibrant green; dry season turns them chocolate brown (30-50m/100-165ft high). Local legends attribute them to battling giants, a heartbroken lover's tears, or a buffalo's droppings. 
My DIY day cost far less than a tour:
- Tricycle to bus terminal: PHP 30 / US$0.68
- Jeepney to tarsier sanctuary: PHP 20 / US$0.45
- Tarsier admission: PHP 50 / US$1.13
- Jeepney back to Tagbilaran: PHP 20 / US$0.45
- Bus to Carmen: PHP 55 / US$1.24
- Motorbike tour: PHP 300 / US$6.75
- Viewpoint admission: PHP 50 / US$1.13
- Bus back to Tagbilaran: PHP 55 / US$1.24
Total: PHP 580 / US$13.07 
Visiting Bohol: Practical Tips
- Stayed at Nisa’s Travelers in Tagbilaran: PHP 500 (US$11.30) for single room with fan, shared bath, Wi-Fi, breakfast. Convenient for tarsiers/hills; head to Panglao for beaches.
- Avoid Loboc Tarsier Sanctuary—poor conditions, stress, illegal captures. Choose Corella (20 mins from Tagbilaran).
- Rent motorbikes in Tagbilaran via guesthouses for independent exploration.
- From Carmen bus stop, walk 20 mins/214 steps to viewpoint (bring water).
- Access: Fly to Cebu, taxi to ferry port (2 hrs to Tagbilaran). Direct Manila flights available.
