Top Highlights and Lowlights: 300 Days of Backpacking Central America
Last week, we marked our '300 days of travel' milestone, reflecting on the past 100 days exploring Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. Here's an honest look at our best and worst experiences—not all sun and glamour, though much of it was!
Top Travel Moments
Hiking Volcanoes
Central America's isthmus sits on the Ring of Fire, a volcanic chain along the Pacific. Many volcanoes are climbable. In the last 100 days, we summited two. Dani first tackled Pacaya, an active volcano near Antigua, Guatemala, witnessing glowing lava and stunning views after a challenging ascent.
In León, Nicaragua, we climbed Cerro Negro—twice. We joined Quetzaltrekkers, a nonprofit offering volcano boarding for $30 (two runs). Unaware of the double climb in 35°C (95°F) heat, we hauled toboggans up the steep black slopes before boarding down. Intense, unforgettable.
Taking a Vacation
Full-time travel and work can exhaust, especially after rushing through eastern Guatemala and Honduras. In León, we booked a week on Nicaragua's Corn Islands via a traditional agency. We hammocked, island-hopped, swam, and worked minimally on these remote Caribbean gems.
Cooking Indio Viejo with Doña Ana
In León, we learned to make veggie Indio Viejo (traditional Nicaraguan stew, sans chicken). At the market, we grabbed unfamiliar ingredients like red spice powders that perfectly flavored it. We handmade tortillas at a bustling tortillería in an indigenous neighborhood, then cooked at Doña Ana's home. Chatting with her and her daughter over our meal was a highlight.
Favorite Places
Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
We've professed our love for Lake Atitlán, Central America's most beautiful lake. After seeing lakes across Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua, it remains the most stunning and serene.
León, Nicaragua
León ranks among our top spots in Central America. Nicaragua's second-largest city (pop. ~200,000) blends modern amenities with timeless charm—rocking chairs at sunset, horse-drawn carriages, Sandinista murals, bullet-scarred buildings, and no U.S. fast-food chains.
San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
This Pacific coastal town near Costa Rica evokes a Nicaraguan Venice Beach: wide streets, a promenade, colorful homes, surfers, and locals. Expat spots mix with local seafood for Costa Rican visitors. Calm cove beach for swimming; nearby surf spots shine. Epic sunsets.
Samara Beach, Costa Rica
Among beaches visited (Corn Islands, Poneloya, San Juan del Sur, Honduras Caribbean), Costa Rica's topped them. Samara on the Nicoya Peninsula offers a relaxed village vibe despite expats. Palm-fringed white sands in a perfect bay—ideal for waves and long walks.
Most Disappointing Places
Omoa, Honduras
Our 2009 guide promised a quaint fishing village with deserted Caribbean beaches. Reality: eroded shores from nearby oil/gas construction, garbage-strewn paths. We left without swimming.
Granada, Nicaragua
Hyped as Nicaragua's prettiest town with manicured colonial charm. It's polished but touristy—overpriced traps, tour groups, pushy vendors. Lacked León's authentic passion. We'd swap time here for more in León.
Montezuma, Costa Rica
From 1999 hippie haven to 2011 overcrowded spot with pricey hotels, rental SUVs, and imported groceries. Beaches remain gorgeous for swimming, but the vibe shifted bittersweetly.
Travel Recommendations
Beyond Samara, León, and San Juan del Sur, we recommend:
Livingston, Guatemala
Boat-only access to Garífuna Caribbean culture. Scenic Rio Dulce jungle ride, Cueva de la Vaca cliffs, estuary. No top beaches in town, but better ones nearby.
Corn Islands, Nicaragua
Affordable off-grid Caribbean escape: empty white sands, snorkeling, palms, fresh seafood/coconuts on Big and Little Corn, 70km offshore.
Worst Travel Moments
Illness in Omoa, Honduras
Tiny Omoa lacks pharmacies (closed Sundays anyway) or banks. Dani's traveler's sickness hit; low cash forced two days' wait before busing to Copán clinic.
Bug Bites
Mosquitoes target Jess's 'sweet blood.' Granada's lakeside swarms feasted on her legs (restaurants stock repellent). No dengue this time, but scars linger post-Guatemala scare.
Top Travel Mishaps
Stranded in Tegucigalpa on New Year's Day
Aiming for Estelí, Nicaragua, holiday buses halted us. Taxi chaos, no options—stuck in Honduras' sketchy capital. Overpaid for hotel/pizza; morning revealed it's less scary than rumored (gunshots aside).
Top Food Moments
Gallo Pinto
Nicaragua/Costa Rica staple: rice, beans, peppers, onions, Salsa Lizano. Breakfast fave, but anytime winner!
Baleadas
Honduran breakfast: flour tortilla with eggs, refried beans, cream, avocado—like a burrito. Dani's fave.
Pizzeria Monna Lisa, Granada
Best Central American pizza: thin-crust, stone-oven. Dani raves it's near-Italian level. Chocolate calzones? Divine.
El Desayunazo, León
León's breakfast king: Nica (gallo pinto, eggs) or gringo (pancakes). Bottomless coffee; arrive early weekends.
Read on for:
- Our Tops and Flops of 200 days: Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador
- Our Tops and Flops of 100 days: Las Vegas, California, Arizona, Mexico
