Highlights and Lowlights: 200 Days of Travel in Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, and El Salvador
After reflecting on 200 days of travel, here are the standout highlights and challenges from our last 100 days exploring Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, and El Salvador.
Top Travel Moments
Snorkeling off Caye Caulker, Belize
Sailing through the Caribbean on a Tuesday afternoon, sipping rum punch after snorkeling with nurse sharks, barracudas, turtles, and stingrays along the Mesoamerican Reef—the world’s second-largest—we realized the joy of ditching office life for adventure.
A Month in a Beachfront Apartment in Playa del Carmen, Mexico
We rented an apartment in Playa del Carmen for a month to focus on freelance work. Though busy, it felt like home after weeks of constant packing. Unwinding on the pristine beach after work or during lunch was unbeatable.
Driving Golf Carts Around Isla Mujeres, Mexico
While Cancun disappointed, a short ferry ride away lies Isla Mujeres, Mexico’s coolest island. Wade into crystal-clear, knee-deep Caribbean waters just 40 meters from the beach, then hop on a golf cart to your next spot. Everyone drives them on real roads—a fun, surreal experience.
Todos Santos, Guatemala
Stepping off the bus in Todos Santos, we felt truly off the beaten path. Locals in full traditional Mayan attire spoke Quiché, staring curiously at us gringas.
Kite-Flying with Kids in Chichicastenango, Guatemala
We timed our visit to Todos Santos (All Saints' Day) on November 1, featuring kite-flying in the cemetery to honor the dead. Local boys, initially begging for shoes and toys, became our guides to the vibrant hilltop cemetery. Unable to afford kites, we bought them some and watched their pride in flying them—one of Guatemala’s best days, right after witnessing a Mayan ceremony with a live rooster sacrifice.
Worst Travel Moments
Crossing the Border with Dengue Fever
Dengue fever is brutal. Jess mistook early symptoms—fatigue and headache—for post-adventure exhaustion. By the Belize-Guatemala border crossing, leg pain, raging fever, and a vice-like headache resisted even 800mg paracetamol. Symptoms worsened; she powered through a 4 a.m. Tikal sunrise tour. A pharmacist suspected malaria or dengue; tests confirmed dengue. It sidelined her for two weeks: fever, itchiness, fatigue, and apathy. Positives: more time in Flores and Lake Petén Itzá, plus proving resilience through border chaos and Tikal climbs.
Every Bus Ride in Guatemala
The overnight Flores-to-Guatemala City bus had a reckless driver racing another bus, shaving two hours off a bumpy nightmare. The Cuatro Caminos-to-Huehuetenango chicken bus hurled us off seats on curves. Worse: Huehuetenango-to-Todos Santos (40km, 3 hours) on ancient buses over high mountain passes and dirt roads. Todos Santos was worth it.
Top Travel Mishaps
Attempted Theft
On a packed Antigua-to-Chimaltenango chicken bus, Jess’s bag was sliced by the woman beside her. Squeezed three to a school-bus seat, vigilance is key. Jess noticed in time; the thief faked a call and fled at the next stop. Otherwise, luck held except for dengue and Dani’s giardia.
Top Food Moments
Dani’s discovery: Huevos Motuleños, a Yucatán breakfast of fried eggs on tortillas with black beans, plantains, salsa, peas, and ham for meat-eaters.
Jess loved recreating Mexican street food in our Playa del Carmen kitchen. Fresh banana bread sold basket-to-basket on Caye Caulker was heavenly. El Salvador’s pupusas—filled tortillas with cheese, beans, or pork (revueltas)—served with cabbage and salsa, shone everywhere.
Our Top Stop in the Last 100 Days
Antigua, Guatemala
Antigua tops our list: a UNESCO-protected, cosmopolitan hub with gourmet restaurants, top bars, 70+ Spanish schools, galleries, poetry, film, and music. Rest, learn Spanish, volunteer, or connect via superior Wi-Fi. Jess lived there two years; it enchanted us anew. Stunning colonial architecture and volcanoes (two active) make it magical. We stayed two weeks at Casa Amarilla (Yellow House)—cleanest, most relaxing, best-value hostel with stellar free breakfast.
Other Favorite Stops
Valladolid
Mexico’s Yucatán gem: charming colonial town, few tourists, bikeable, peaceful.
Flores
Meant as a Tikal base, this Lake Petén Itzá island’s alleys and sunsets kept us longer: boating, swimming, meeting locals.
Todos Santos
Quintessential Guatemala: mountain valley town with centuries-old woven Mayan textiles. Only five other foreigners in three days; bumpy access deters masses.
Least Favorite Places
Transport hubs like Palenque (rundown Mexican town, not ruins) and Huehuetenango (Western Highlands stopover). Merida disappointed: shabby despite “magical” hype, but cenote tours saved it.
Top Travel Recommendations
Take Chicken Buses in Guatemala
Despite bumps, they’re cheap (Q50/$6.25 max vs. $10-20 shuttles), fast, offer local snacks, and immerse you in culture. Tikal-Guatemala City: Q240/$30 each.
Skip El Salvador Beach Hype (Unless Surfing)
Surf spots like El Tunco shine for boarders. Non-surfers find rocky shores. Costa del Sol: sandy but neglected, spread-out pricey hotels. Prefer Costa Rica or Playa del Carmen. Try Alegria, Suchitoto, or Ruta de las Flores instead.
Flores, Guatemala
Stay beyond Tikal: swim clean Lake Petén Itzá, visit the lake zoo.
Belize
Caye Caulker over others. Snorkel with Harry and Steve at BlackHawk Sailing.
Isla Mujeres, Mexico
Day trip or overnight from Cancun: empty beaches, colorful homes, affordable eats. Tip: Cheaper local ferries from Puerto Juárez.
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