Kerala Backwaters Bliss: Our Unforgettable 3-Day Houseboat Cruise in India
It was Jaime who first broke the serene silence.
The four of us were immersed in books or gazing at the tranquil waters. Val hadn't spoken in hours, and Dani and I were equally captivated by the stunning scenery.
“Oh my god…” Jaime said, stretching languidly like a contented cat. “I’m soooo relaxed.”
We all nodded in dreamy agreement. After two full days aboard our houseboat, we had slipped into a profound state of calm, akin to the bliss following an intense hour-long massage.
Our Kerala backwaters tour was the undisputed highlight of our India trip, and we were reluctant to see it end. Originally planned for two nights, we extended to three to savor this tranquility longer. Mindful that it could be magical or disappointing, we researched carefully and selected the perfect boat and crew—a decision we never regretted.
I had envisioned ‘backwaters’ as murky mangroves, but Kerala’s backwaters stretch endlessly across the state in vibrant, deep blue expanses. They resemble patchwork fields of water, divided by slender strips of land lined with towering palm trees, no wider than a meter.
Elsewhere, channels widen into rivers or narrow into brooks, flanked by dry land with scattered houses, schools, shops, and even vibrant pink Catholic churches. Occasionally, we glided past quaint villages.
Our houseboat struck an ideal balance—far superior to the overpriced rust buckets pitched elsewhere. At just $35 per person per night, it featured two spacious double rooms with en-suite bathrooms rivaling those on our Mediterranean cruise. Downstairs offered a dining table for meals, but we spent most time upstairs under a thatched roof: chaise lounges, a couch, chairs, and cushioned front deck.
Our crew—a captain and chef—spoke no English, so communication was limited to grateful thanks for their exceptional meals. Our three days unfolded like a gentle rhythm of gliding through palm-fringed waters and delectable mealtimes. We awoke around 8am to coffee and tea, awaiting authentic Kerala breakfast. Departing at 9:30am, we yearned for an earlier start to maximize the mesmerizing views. Lunch, the day's highlight, arrived at 1pm wherever we anchored: two or three curries, soup, hot and cold vegetable dishes, rice, and chapati.
Around 4pm, as the heat eased, we enjoyed tea, coffee, and sweet snacks. After crossing a lake, we retreated to a quiet inlet for sunset dinner at 7:30pm. Little did we expect some of India's finest cuisine on this Kerala backwaters adventure.
The days brimmed with magical encounters: an exotic bird perching on our railing for photos before fluttering away; a swarm of yellow butterflies pacing our boat; children waving enthusiastically from riverbank steps where mothers washed clothes on stones.
Mornings revealed locals brushing teeth or soaping up on those steps, rinsing into the life-sustaining waters used for washing, fishing, and bathing. Speedboats laden with bricks, steel, or sandbags occasionally zipped by, ferrying construction materials for new homes.
One morning, two boys paddled up with a mother rabbit and her tiny bunnies in a box. We petted the fluffy newborns, sharing laughs with the boys and our captain—a rare interactive moment despite the language barrier—ending with cheerful “Bye, bye!” waves.
Afternoon on day two brought a spectacle: thousands of ducks surging from a channel into the main waterway beside us, their unified flock drifting purposefully onward.
The first night, we lingered late with drinks and stories. Subsequent evenings involved watching shows, sharing tales, or pure relaxation. Without daily caffeine boosts, we might have slumbered through day three.
This haven felt worlds away from India's chaotic roads—honking, swerves, and near-misses heightening urban tension. Yet India thrives on such contrasts, and Kerala’s backwaters reveal its serene underbelly.
Perfectly poised in India, this escape swings the pendulum from urban frenzy to utter peace.
For tips on selecting the ideal houseboat for your Kerala backwaters cruise, read our guide here.
