Discover Borneo's Mystical Meratus Mountains: Treks, Homestays, and Dayak Culture
Long before vast areas of Borneo were transformed by palm oil plantations and extensive logging, the island resembled the untouched Meratus Mountains. Spanning 2,500 sq km in southern Kalimantan, this range features mist-shrouded peaks crisscrossed by rivers, lush jungles, steep valleys, and dramatic karst formations. It's also home to the indigenous Dayak people, whose deep-rooted spiritual traditions resonate to the rhythmic beat of the shaman's drum.
The ideal way to immerse yourself in this enchanting range is via homestays in villages along the mountain trails. Spend nights in traditional stilted longhouses, sandwiched between thrilling river rafting and hikes through some of Southeast Asia's most breathtaking landscapes.
Preparing for Your Journey
Arrange a driver and English-speaking guide in Banjarmasin or Kandangan for a smoother experience. They are essential for local communication and navigating the complex trail network—stories abound of overzealous travelers getting lost, sometimes irretrievably.
Just 1.5 hours north of Kandangan lies Loksado, a Dayak village at the Meratus foothills and a prime launchpad for treks. It offers guesthouses and simple eateries. Try Mr. Alut’s Guest House (Loksado; 0-81-3493-46147) by the river, with cozy wooden rooms and warm blankets to combat the chilly nights.
From Loksado, set off on foot with your guide into the mountains. At dusk, witness fireflies dancing, bats soaring, and trails glowing with the eerie green eyes of bioluminescent fungi—a mesmerizing, otherworldly spectacle.
Authentic Dayak Homestays
Steeped in headhunting lore and animist beliefs, Dayak villages exude raw mysticism little altered by time. Swidden agriculture and ancient rituals persist alongside modern conveniences like mobile phones and satellite TV, with shamans still revered.
Upon arrival, request permission from the Kepala Kampung (village headman) to stay, and offer a cash donation upon leaving.
Homestays often include longhouse tours, once housing up to 30 families under one roof. Though many now live separately, the longhouse remains the communal heart for ceremonies, celebrations, and spirit altar prayers.
You might witness a pembeliatn (shaman) in trance, diagnosing malevolent spirits attached to a person's juus (soul) and purifying it. Shamans also mediate marital issues and bestow blessings, bridging the physical world and forest spirits.
Overnight, bed down on a mat in the stilted longhouse and savor local cuisine. Locals love seeing family photos, so bring your camera—but always ask before photographing.
Thrilling Treks and River Rafting
Treks range from hours to three days, tailored to your fitness and desired depth. A highlight: hike upstream along the Amandit River from Loksado for 8 km to stunning waterfalls beyond Harati village. The path steepens near upper cascades; a guide is advised.
Don't miss Malaris village's intricately carved longhouse across the river from Loksado, once home to 32 families. With headman approval and no ceremonies underway, overnight stays may be possible.
Cap your adventure with Amandit River rafting, especially during high water. Float 2 hours downstream to Muara Tanuhi, tackling rapids amid karst landscapes and wild forests for an adrenaline rush.
