Master Freediving in Indonesia: My Transformative Experience on the Gili Islands
Freediving captivates with its simplicity and allure—exploring the deep ocean unencumbered by tanks or regulators. Eager to try it myself, I joined a course on Indonesia's stunning Gili Islands.
As an athletic pursuit, freediving demands solid fitness to descend to reefs and ascend safely. With years of snorkeling under my belt but room for improvement in technique and safety, I enrolled in a course at Freedive Gili on picturesque Gili Trawangan, off Lombok's northwest coast. The school is run by UK Full Immersion record holder Mike Board and his partner Kate Middleton (no relation to the royals!), a yoga instructor and expert freediver.
A Growing Sport
Humans have freedived for millennia—from Scandinavian records dating to 5000 BC, ancient Greeks, to modern Japanese ama and Korean haenyeo women harvesting shellfish, seaweed, and pearls.
Competitive freediving, popularized by films like The Big Blue, has surged in the last 20 years, with global events and championships. For most enthusiasts, however, recreational freediving enhances snorkeling efficiency to observe more marine life.
Courses are offered by SSI (Scuba Schools International; divessi.com) and AIDA (aidainternational.org).
The Science of Freediving
Success hinges on total physical and mental relaxation. Anxiety accelerates heart rate and oxygen consumption, but the mammalian dive reflex counters this: face immersion slows the heartbeat, conserving energy. Visualization of the dive is key.
Though competitive freediving has an extreme reputation—with depths like instructor Mike's 91m record—professional training and the buddy system ensure safety, mirroring scuba protocols.
The Course
My two-day SSI Level One course at Freedive Gili began in their yoga space with diaphragmatic breathing to optimize air intake. We covered risks like blackout (rare, oxygen-related) and rescue techniques. Classmates included an Australian spearfisher and a UK marketing manager new to snorkeling. All courses integrate yoga stretches.
Training focused on vertical descents along drop lines in open water, prioritizing technique over marine spotting. By course end, everyone reached 8m; two of us hit 20m. We applied skills at Sunset Reef, spotting three hawksbill turtles—master freedivers themselves.
The Experience
The freedom from bulky gear, bubble-free silence, and enhanced fish encounters create a profound underwater world. The physical and mental challenge suits all ages; nearing 50 and no athlete, I'm hooked and aiming deeper than my 22m personal best in Gili Trawangan.
The Island
Gili Trawangan, a tiny coral-fringed isle two hours by boat from Bali, has evolved from backpacker haven to tropical paradise with white-sand beaches, boho hotels, and seafood spots. Options span budget to luxury—try Karma Kayak bungalows or Kokomo villas. Excellent dive schools like Lutwala abound.
Freediving Worldwide
Schools thrive globally, from Australia and the Bahamas to Iceland and Thailand.
Egypt's Dahab boasts world-class sites like the Blue Hole. Blue Ocean Free Divers (blueoceanfreedivers.com) offers a 30m training pool and AIDA tasters. Desert Divers provides seven-night packages with Blue Hole dives, Thistlegorm wreck, Shark Reef, and camel safaris (hotel/transfers included, excluding flights).
UK's Cornwall features basking sharks and spider crabs; Freedive UK (freediveuk.com) runs courses and tours.
More Information
Deeperblue.com is an essential resource with forums for buddies, dive sites, and conditions.
