Comoros Islands: Discover Untouched Tropical Beauty Off the Beaten Path
Test your geography knowledge: Can you locate the Comoros Islands on a map?
Derived from the Arabic word for 'moon,' Qamar, this captivating yet undervisited archipelago nestles between Madagascar and Mozambique in the Indian Ocean.
From the 15th century, it served as a vital trading hub for Arab, Persian, African, and European merchants. France annexed the islands throughout the 19th century; in 1975, three—Grande Comore, Mohéli, and Anjouan—gained independence, while Mayotte remains a French overseas territory.
Sharing the Indian Ocean's allure with Mauritius and the Seychelles, the Comoros boast year-round temperatures of 20–30°C, swaying palms, and turquoise waters. Unlike their polished neighbors, however, the Comoros resist mass tourism, welcoming just 3,000 visitors annually—often avid explorers ticking off every country. This exclusivity is their true draw.
Grande Comore
Galawa Beach, Grande Comore. Image by Jean Du Boisberranger / hemis.fr / Getty Images.
Hosting the capital Moroni, Grande Comore offers the most variety and accessibility for travelers. Moroni exudes a relaxed vibrancy. Its medina echoes African and Middle Eastern old towns, though more weathered: ornate carved doors, narrow winding alleys, and minarets piercing the skyline. The port pulses with tides, scented by frangipani and bougainvillea.
The south features mighty Karthala volcano, among the world's most active, its 2,360m summit often shrouded in clouds. A rewarding two-day trek (with overnight camping) climbs through dense forest to the crater's lunar terrain. Contact the tourism office (+269 333 82 13) for guides.
Volcanic traces define the island. From Moroni, the eastern mountain road reveals vast lava flows scarring the slopes. These dark rocks contrast stunningly with Chomoni Beach's white sands and azure sea.
Heading north on rough roads, expect pristine beaches, palms, baobabs, and dramatic skies. At the northern tip, the Dos du Dragon (Dragon's Back) stuns with jagged rock spines on a peninsula—best viewed from Île Aux Tortues across the bay or by hiking up close.
For swimming, Trou du Prophète's sheltered coves are ideal. Legend says the Prophet Mohammed hid from pirates behind the rocks. The ethereal light and crystal waters make it perfect for lingering.
Return to Moroni in 1½ hours. Budget stays: Jardin de la Paix (doubles €30–50), central with clean rooms and top dining (one of few serving alcohol). Mid-range: Retaj Moroni (doubles €70), in lush grounds. Luxury: Itsandra Beach Hotel (doubles €140), the nation's finest.
Moroni, Grande Comore. Image by Jean Du Boisberranger / The Image Bank / Getty Images.
Mohéli
While Grande Comore showcases rugged landscapes, Mohéli captivates with marine wonders. The smallest, least populated island features forested hills and a vast southern marine national park.
Unspoiled Mohéli is a premier turtle nesting ground—spot them nesting, hatching, or snorkeling. Itsamia village on the southeast tip now protects turtles via scientific monitoring and ecotourism, shifting from past consumption.
Stay in simple bungalows; nights are for turtle watches under stellar skies rivaling deserts.
Relax at Laka Lodge (€50/person full board) near Nioumachoua: cozy bungalows, welcoming hosts, superb beach, snorkel gear, and park islet excursions.
Anjouan
Triangular Anjouan, the most populous island, shares Mohéli's rare Livingstone fruit bats (1.5m wingspan) in mountain colonies. NGO Dahari arranges €50 treks to colonies and biodiversity sites.
Unwind at southern Moya Beach, the loveliest and easiest access. Moya Beach Hotel (+269 337 92 21, moyabeach@yahoo.fr; doubles €20) offers atmosphere and excellent lobster.
Island-Hopping
Inter-island travel is essential but challenging. Limited ferries make flights preferable via ABAviation or Inter-Iles Air (+269 771 00 03)—expect delays and variable safety.
Groups: Charter Blue Safari Comores' 12m yacht (+269 323 1038, dlegeant77@hotmail.com; €300/day, 4–6 guests) for multi-day cruises.
Getting There & Away
Kenyan Airways, Air Tanzania, and Air Madagascar serve Prince Said Ibrahim Airport, Grande Comore. 45-day visas on arrival: €30.
Emilie Filou, French-born, English-hearted Africa enthusiast. Follow @EmilieFilou.
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