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Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Charming maestra tequilera Bertha Gonzalez Nieves, co-founder and CEO of Casa Dragones Tequila, is our go-to for what to do in Mexico City, her hometown. She loves art, she loves food, she loves to party: She's our kind of girl. Fine spirits abound when she's around — and not only those of the liquid kind.

FIRST WE GALLERY-HOP, RUN, AND CHILL

Kurimanzutto Art Gallery
Gob. Rafael Rebollar, 94; +52-55-5256-2408
The leading and hottest contemporary art gallery in Mexico and the home gallery of influential artist Gabriel Orozco. We joined the Kurimanzutto team when Gabriel's retrospective went to MoMA in New York City, Kunstmuseum in Basel, Tate Modern in London, and Centre Pompidou in Paris.

OMR Art Gallery
Plaza Río de Janeiro 54; +52-55-5511-1179
An exceptionally well established contemporary art gallery that recently opened an adjoining space, el52.

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Espacio Escultórico. Photo: Universidad Nacional / Flickr.

Espacio Escultórico
Circuito Maestro Marío de la Cueva, at UNAM (Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México)
An amazing park-like garden in the middle of the university campus. A great place to escape and get away from the buzz of this very busy city. 

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

San Ildefonso. Photo: Courtesy of Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso. 

San Ildefonso Murals 
Justo Sierra 16; +52 55 5702 2991
They're just beautiful.

La Coleccion Jumex
Vía Morelos 272; +52-55-5775-8188
One of the most important modern art collections of Latin America, run by Eugenio López, heir to the Jumex juices empire. They recently appointed a new director, Patrick Charpenel, and the grandeur and impressive expositions are back.

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Fruits at the San Juan Market. Photo: Joshua Bousel / Flickr

San Juan Market
Ernesto Pugibet 21; +52-55-5510-0762
The best gourmet market in the city, where you'll find the best local produce. Look for local fruits like mango manila, mamey, chico zapote, cherries, or whatever is in season. The vegetables are amazing, too, as are the cheeses, bacon, and exotic foods  like escamoles and grasshoppers.

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

El Ocotal. Photo: Robert Hansen / Flickr.

Run at El Ocotal 
Km 23 along Mexico-Toluca Highway 
The DF is a city of runners, and I love running through El Ocotal, a beautiful, high-altitude forest with three different track options. Breathe fresh air. Gaze at huge trees. Forget the crowded city. It's 28 kilometers outside the city near Acopilco, a short 20-minute drive on the Mexico-Toluca federal highway.

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Photo: Courtesy of Galeria Daniel Liebsohn.

Galeria Daniel Liebsohn
Calle Londres 161; +52-55-5525-2050
Daniel has a great eye for antiques, and his gallery is filled with amazing and well-restored Mexican antiques.

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Museo Nacional de Antropologia 
av. Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi; +52-55-5553-6381
The National Museum of Anthropology is incredibly popular for reasons beyond the great architecture and huge fountain. The pre-Hispanic collection of artifacts will leave you awestruck.  

Have a Tequila at San Ángel Inn
Diego Rivera 50; +52-55-5616-1402
Of course you have to have a glass of Casa Dragones when you're in town! And I like it best at San Ángel Inn, a beautiful former hacienda in the heart of San Ángel neighborhood. The gardens and patio are lovely, the restaurant is traditional and elegant, the music is just great. While you're in the area, don't miss the incredible market El Bazaar Sábado and Diego Rivera Studio Museum across the street.


Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Photo: Courtesy of Fiamma Piacentini for Pujol.

THEN WE EAT. REALLY WELL

Dulce Patria
Anatole France 100; +52-55-3300-3999
Chef Martha Ortiz is a romantic about Mexican food. Her gold and Mexican pink restaurant in the heart of Polanco is where I like to go for upscale Mexican fare.
Read More on Fathom: Behind the Scenes of "My Last Supper"

Pujol 
Francisco Petrarca 254; +52-55-5545-3507
Chef Enrique Olvera has been listed in the best chefs/restaurants in the world. The food and dishes are the main act, with two set menus to choose from. The full flavor of traditional Mexican dishes pairs really well with Casa Dragones. 
Read More on Fathom: On the Road in Mexico City

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Azul Histórico 
Isabel La Católica 30; +52-55-5510-1316
The newest restaurant from chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita is located in the heart of downtown on the patio of an historic building. He serves special festival menus every few months from every region of Mexico. 

Contramar
Durango 200; +52-55-5514-3169
The best seafood hot spot. Packed seven days a week. It's only open for lunch, but keep in mind that Mexican lunches last until nightfall. You'll likely spot art world personalities like Gabriel Orozco, Patrick Charpenel, and Miguel Calderón and actors like Gael García Bernal and Diego Luna.
Read More on Fathom: On the Road in Mexico City

El Cardenal
Palma 23; +52-55-5521-8817
The best Mexican restaurant, open only for breakfast and lunch with four locations: Centro Histórico, Lomas, Alameda, and the newest in San Ángel. Amazing escamoles and maguey worms with homemade tortillas. The bread is baked daily in-house, and the sweet breakfast rolls called conchae are to die for. 

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Fried huazontles with cheese in Quintonil. Photo: Adam Goldberg / Flickr.

Quintonil
Newton 55; +52-55-5280-2680
Hidden in Polanco and strictly for those in the know. Very good new Mexican cuisine with traditional ingredients. Try huauzontles and the perfect egg with rice. 

Porfirio's
Av. Presidente Masaryk no. 214; +52-55-5280-1494

Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

Photo: Courtesy of El Lago de los Cisnes. 

El Lago de los Cisnes
Prado Norte 391; +52-55-5282-4501
When in Mexico, hit the 24-hour taqueria. Order tacos al pastor at 5 a.m. If you add cheese, it's called a gringa


Insider Mexico City Guide: Art, Food & Tequila with Maestra Bertha González Nieves

AND THEN WE PARTY

M.N. Roy
Mérida 186
The hottest and trendiest club in town with a different DJ every night. Arrive before 2 a.m. if you're not a member. The place fills up after 2 and goes until someone says stop — usually well after daybreak. 

Bar Tomate
Emilio Castelar 229; +52-55-5280-6099

Leonor
Nuevo León 163
The club where everyone knows your name and there are familiar faces all around. Good music and a great mix of hipster and posh. 

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Mexico City Diary
Mexico City by Design

Photos: Fountain at Museo Nacional de Antropologia. Photo: Mauricio Olivares / Flickr; Azul Histórico Interior. Photo: Courtesy of Mexico Cooks; Leonor Club. Photo: Courtesy of Leonor. 


Travel Notes
  • Polaroid of the Week: Majestic Pyramid at Teotihuacan, Mexico

    During our stay in Mexico City, we embarked on a memorable day trip to Teotihuacan, home to some of the worlds most iconic ancient pyramids. This vast archaeological site, believed to have supported up to 250,000 residents, lies about 30 miles (50 km) northeast of the capital. Buses depart every 30 minutes from Terminal del Norte—head to Sala 8 for tickets. The enigma of its abandonment endures, with theories pointing to a devastating fire that razed much of the city. Teotihuacan, meaning City

  • Polaroid of the Week: Iconic VW Beetle Taxis in Mexico City Nearing Retirement

    Just like Londons iconic double-decker buses, Mexico Citys VW Beetle taxis—known locally as vochos—have long been a beloved symbol of the bustling metropolis. These colorful bugs zipped tirelessly through the streets until city officials phased them out by the end of 2012.This Polaroid captures what may have been one of the last vochos during our recent visit to Mexico City. At their peak, around 50,000 Beetle taxis roamed the city, but numbers declined sharply after production ended in Mexico i

  • Polaroid of the Week: Iconic Mariachi Gatherings at Mexico City s Plaza Garibaldi

    Mexico Citys Plaza Garibaldi is renowned for its vibrant gatherings of Mariachi musicians, especially on weekends. Located just a 10-minute walk along Eje Central from the Palacio de las Bellas Artes in the historic center, the plaza boasts several bars, restaurants, and the nearby indoor market San Camilito, where we savored authentic street food. The true highlight is in the late afternoon, when up to 100 Mariachi bands arrive from all directions, dressed in traditional costumes and carryin