Why I Keep Returning to Chiang Mai: 12 Things I Love About This Thai Gem
Imagine having a full year to travel anywhere in the world. If you found yourself returning to one destination three times in five months, it must be special. That's my story with Chiang Mai, Thailand. My affection grew gradually during our Southeast Asia adventures, leading to three visits in quick succession.
My first trip was for the mesmerizing Loy Krathong lantern festival. After exploring Laos, I stayed a month. I thought it was goodbye, but I returned a month later for a housesitting opportunity.
While Chiang Mai may not dazzle like New York or Singapore, it's an ideal spot for short visits or long stays. My love developed slowly, but I'm committed to returning (and I have, multiple times since writing this). Here's my curated list of what makes Chiang Mai unforgettable, drawn from personal experience:
The Perfect City Size
Chiang Mai strikes an ideal balance: large enough to stay engaging, small enough to navigate easily without a car or scooter. We rented bicycles for a month and crossed town in under an hour. Central areas are walkable in 30 minutes. Despite over one million residents in the greater area, it rarely feels overcrowded.
World-Class Coffee Shops
Thais elevate coffee to an art. Chiang Mai boasts more cafes than any Southeast Asian city we visited—from tiny spots with two tables to trendy art cafes and chains. Highlights include a flower-adorned coffee truck with potent brews. All feature top-tier machines and reliable Wi-Fi, perfect for remote workers like us. Favorites: Ristr8to, Old Chiang Mai Café, Coffee Zebra, Akha Ama Café, and Doi Chaang. Coffee lovers, check this list of 30 top cafes.
A Vegetarian Paradise
Chiang Mai is Thailand's most vegetarian-friendly city, with over 30 dedicated restaurants. We sampled many, but more await. Friends Erin and Simon highlight the best; our picks: PunPun, Juicy4U, AUM, Dada Kafe, and Khun Churn's lunch buffet.
And Incredible Global Food
A foodie's dream: top Thai cuisine plus international gems like thin-crust pizza, English breakfasts, tapas, curries, falafel, sausages, or quesadillas. Don't miss the cake buffet! Non-Thai favorites: Bake n Bite, iBerry, Beetroot Stories, Salsa Kitchen, and La Lanterna di Genova.
Majestic Temples
As a temple enthusiast, I could wander Chiang Mai's 300+ ornate Buddhist sites for hours. Golden Buddhas and ancient stupas captivate. Favorites: Wat San Duok, Wat Chiang Man, Wat Lok Moli, Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Montien, and Doi Suthep.
Engaging Monks
Hundreds of monks add vibrancy. In 2011, 12,000 gathered for a weekend. Spot them on motorbikes, buses, or buying phone credit—bald, robed, serene. They eagerly chat with visitors, fostering cultural connections.
Vibrant Markets
Pad Thai for $1 beside graphic tees; smoothies near handicrafts. Icons like Saturday Walking Street and Sunday Night Market buzz (crowded post-6:30pm). Beyond tourist wares, locals shop for clothes, jewelry, art. We found a hip Thai market evoking East London.
Trendy Hipsters
A university town with stylish youth around Nimmanhaemin Road's bars and cafes. Thai hipsters are cutting-edge yet polite—ideal for mingling. Skip Old Town tourists; head to Nimmanhaemin for authentic vibes.
Creative Energy
Street art, innovative shops, and galleries infuse neighborhoods with inspiration.
Year-Round Festivals
Monthly parades: Umbrella (Jan), Flower (Feb), Songkran (Apr), Visakha Bucha (May), Yi Peng/Loi Krathong (Nov), Rose (Dec).
Affordable Living
Expats and retirees flock for value: studios $150–$200/month, houses $300. Street food <$1, local meals $1–$2, tourist spots $2–$4, Western $5–$7. Movies $3.50, massages $4/hour, transport $0.65, dental $30. See blogs from JetSet Citizen, A Little Adrift, etc., on $500/month living.
Not All Perfect
Architecture is functional concrete, lacking colonial charm. Some areas attract seedy expats. Too touristy in spots; no nearby beach, isolated from elsewhere. Yet, the positives outweigh drawbacks.
These reasons ensure my return. Have you visited Chiang Mai? What do you love most?
