An Unexpected Temple Tour: Hijacked by a Buddhist Monk in Sukhothai, Thailand
We’re based in the unassuming town of New Sukhothai in central Thailand, perfectly positioned for exploring Old Sukhothai—the ancient capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Planning a visit to these historic ruins? Check out our ultimate guide to Sukhothai Historical Park.)
After exploring the modern town and finding little in the way of attractions, we had no idea we were about to experience one of our most memorable moments in Thailand right here.
To avoid the midday heat and tour buses, we set off early for the Old City. Pausing to pet a stray cat we’d fed the night before, we noticed a smiling Buddhist monk in flowing saffron robes beckoning us across the unpaved road to his temple complex. His gentle yet insistent gestures made it feel like we were late for a private appointment.
Plans forgotten, we followed him onto the grounds. When a monk personally invites you to tour a temple, you don’t decline. Brief introductions in broken English followed, his furrowed brow signaling urgency. No time for names—he hurried us along on his mission.
Debris littered the lawns from recent floods that ravaged central Thailand. The compound featured a central temple (with a smaller one under reconstruction), an open area bustling with schoolchildren, and monks’ quarters at the back. Despite the disarray, our guide insisted on photos at a damaged shrine.
He sat before the ruined altar, face serene. “Take picture,” he said. My wife, Dani, obliged. “Now, you here.” Positioning me beside him, he directed another shot, then insisted I photograph Dani with him. Over the next two hours, we snapped over 80 photos in endless variations—all at his command.
Amid buzzing monks and children, we felt like VIPs with our personal escort explaining the layout. Noticing his facial twitch, he pulled a pen from his robe and drew a map on his ink-stained palm—over old maps already there—labeling “school,” “temple,” and “The Map.”
Seating us at a table like eager students, he redrew the map on paper—impressively upside down in English. Bizarre yet captivating, we marveled at his skill.
More photos followed before he rushed us into the temple for warm water from shared glasses, then a hands-on lesson in Buddhist practices.
Essential Etiquette for Visiting a Buddhist Temple
Basic rules apply everywhere: Remove shoes outside. Cover shoulders and knees. Never point feet at a Buddha image; keep your head below its level.
We knew the basics but had never prayed. No hand-holding here—we followed his brisk pace. At each altar, he handed us incense and candles, lit from his robe pocket. Kneeling, we bowed three times (showing respect, compassion, commitment), lit offerings, and placed them correctly. Incense aids meditation focus.
For 45 minutes, we circled altars, photographing endlessly—monk alone, with me, with Dani—often in meditation pose. His stillness evoked temple wax figures.
His twitching intensified for a post-New Year Baci ceremony. As “mor phon” (elder), he tied white strings on our wrists amid candles and flowers, invoking blessings to welcome good fortune.
Juggling kittens, candles, incense, and cameras, we donated generously, grateful for this surreal authenticity.
Authentic Insights from Our Sukhothai Monk Encounter
Finally, gold leaf flakes explained those glittering statues: Thin sheets from booklets, applied as devotion or for favors like health.
Completing the circuit, we shared final water before viewing the flood-rebuilt temple’s ingenious pulley system.
After 20 more minutes, heartfelt goodbyes. Hydrated, blessed, and photo-famous—an extraordinary day. Visiting Sukhothai? Prepare for monk magic!
