Discover the Majestic Perito Moreno Glacier: Patagonia, Argentina's Growing Natural Wonder
While a picture is worth a thousand words, no image can fully capture the breathtaking spectacle of visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the world's few advancing glaciers.
Nestled 50 miles (80 km) from El Calafate, this Patagonian town serves primarily as a convenient base for tourists, filling its hotels and restaurants while paling in comparison to the glacier's allure. Upon arrival, we booked a guided tour and set off early the next morning in a comfortable tourist van toward the towering Andes Mountains.
An hour later, we entered Los Glaciares National Park and reached the first viewpoint. The sheer expanse of ice from afar highlighted its immense scale: approximately 18 miles (29 km) long, 3 miles (5 km) wide, and rising over 240 ft (73 m) above the water—equivalent to a 20-story building. The full magnitude was yet to sink in.
Next, we arrived at the marina for the tour's highlight: a one-hour boat ride approaching within 200 meters of the glacier's face. Though it was mild at 10 a.m. when we boarded, the chill intensified rapidly as we neared the ice wall, where temperatures plummeted dramatically.
Bundled in jackets and scarves, cameras in gloved hands, we marveled at this 97-square-mile (250 km²) ice field. The 240 feet visible above water is merely the tip, with depths plunging to 2,297 feet.
Up close, the glacier's colossal presence was undeniable, though more adventurous visitors opt for ice trekking tours to cross its surface. We chose the extensive network of viewing walkways lining the hillside opposite the glacier. From there, ice trekkers appeared as tiny specks crunching across the frozen expanse.
The boat ride is essential, but the walkways alone could captivate for hours. Initially skeptical about watching ice all day, we were mesmerized—this glacier lives and breathes, advancing 2 meters daily and growing overall.
Solar heat causes massive ice blocks to calve into the lake, providing nonstop drama. Each deep-blue chunk, appearing small from afar, ranges from car-sized to building-sized.
Resulting waves erode a tunnel beneath the glacier. As it deepens, instability builds until enormous sections rupture spectacularly.
Even minor calvings produce thunderous cracks audible across the platforms. Larger falls humble observers, reminding us of our place in nature.
Titanic-scale icebergs drift and melt slowly in the frigid waters.
Paradoxically, calving occurs because this glacier is among Patagonia's few that grow daily, shedding front sections as it expands rearward over 30 km.
The blue hue stems from ice age—denser, older ice appears deeper blue.
Part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field (spanning Chile and Argentina), it feeds 48 glaciers and forms the planet's largest freshwater reserve outside the poles.
How to Visit Perito Moreno Glacier
Several El Calafate operators offer tours:
1) Basic walkways only (no boat)
2) Walkways plus boat tour
3) Ice trekking on the glacier.
Our friends at Indefinite Adventure recommended MundoAustral for competitive pricing (ARS$2,490/US$35 for basic, 2020 rates), which we confirmed unbeatable.
Note: Park entrance (ARS$500/US$7, 2020) is extra.
Public buses depart El Calafate at 8 a.m., return 4 p.m. (ARS$145/US$28 round-trip). Park boat: ARS$90/US$17. Ice trekking from ARS$600/US$115.
Tip: Book a full tour for convenience, especially with boat (we paid US$35 including transport, boat, guides, stops, hotel transfers).
Food: Park cafeteria is overpriced and basic; pack your own for glacier views.
Where to Stay in El Calafate
Budget:
- Folk Hostel: 8-bed dorms from US$12/night, 4-bed from US$14, doubles from US$29. Breakfast included.
- Calafate Hostel: Singles from US$21, doubles w/ bath from US$24, triples from US$26. Breakfast included.
- Hostel Del Viento: Doubles w/ bath from US$25, family rooms from US$30. No breakfast.
Mid-range:
- Linda Vista Apartments: Self-catering cabins from US$85 (2 people), US$142 (family of 4). Breakfast included.
- Sierra Nevada: Central hotel, doubles from US$52 w/ breakfast.
- Cabañas Oyikil: Lakeside cabins w/ kitchenette, doubles from US$43.
Splurge:
- Madre Patagonia: Boutique hotel, doubles from US$122 w/ breakfast.
Video: Our Visit to Perito Moreno Glacier
Join us on this short clip capturing the glacier experience:
For a full Patagonia itinerary from Chile's Lake District to Ushuaia, including costs, transport, lodging, and timelines, check our guide.
