Wild Kamchatka Adventure: Meeting Russia's Nomadic Even Reindeer Herders
Kamchatka, Russia
In the remote Russian peninsula of Kamchatka, indigenous Even people have tended vast reindeer herds for centuries. After a grueling snowmobile journey through brutal conditions, we finally connected with these resilient nomads.
Blasting winter snow pelted my face like thousands of frozen needles.
Navigating snowmobiles through a blinding whiteout with 60 mph winds and a wind chill of -39°F, we fought to descend a vast, featureless alpine plateau. Conditions worsened by the minute.
I genuinely feared we might not escape...
It's March in the heart of Kamchatka—a 900-mile Russian peninsula extending from Siberia into the Pacific Ocean, familiar to many only from the board game RISK.
Spanning an area the size of California but home to just 400,000 people.
This untamed paradise offers boreal forests, geothermal volcanoes, and expansive tundra, captivating wilderness enthusiasts.
Closed to outsiders until the 1990s due to Soviet nuclear submarine bases, Kamchatka remains a hidden gem.
The Kamchatka Peninsula
Accessible only by sea or air—no roads penetrate this wild expanse—Kamchatka once formed part of the Bering land bridge linking Asia and North America.
Along the Pacific Ring of Fire, it hosts over 200 volcanoes (30 active) and abundant wildlife, including large grizzly bear populations.
Its Alaskan parallels made it ideal for the adventure travel photography tour I co-led with fellow photographer Matt Reichel.
Our goal: Guide adventure seekers deep into this remote wilderness to encounter nomadic Even reindeer herders.
Preparing for Our Expedition
We flew into Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Kamchatka's modest Soviet-era capital ringed by volcanoes, then endured a 6-hour bus ride to Esso, our launch point.
There, we gathered snowmobiles, provisions, and supplies, linking up with expert local guides for a week in Kamchatka's Ichinsky District.
Vlad, a Belarusian geologist and translator researching volcanoes; Igor, the tough Russian leader and ex-Bystrinsky National Park ranger; and Ilya and Dasha, our Even indigenous guides who unlocked access to the tundra taboons (nomadic reindeer camps).
Russian Snowmobile Adventure
Our convoy of five snowmobiles, towing gear-laden sleds (and passengers), carved through snow-draped forests beneath towering volcanoes.
Snowmobiling here demands skill and grit.
Lean into turns like on a motorcycle, dodge low branches, and be ready to leap clear to avoid the sled.
We bailed out repeatedly—righting a tipped machine in deep snow could take 10 minutes.
River crossings tested us further, often requiring improvised bridges from saplings and snow.
Reaching the herds was an expedition in itself.
Even Reindeer Taboons
After battling forests, tundra, passes, and icy rivers in the Ichinsky District, we reached our first taboon.
Kiryak Adukanov and family based in a sturdy wooden cabin; as Siberian Evens, they master reindeer husbandry in Russia's Far East.
Reindeer meat supplies Russian markets and global luxury buyers at up to $10 per pound; antlers go to China for traditional remedies.
We pitched camp behind a snowbank, digging a wind-sheltered "snow toilet."
Hanging Out with the Herd
Next morning, Kiryak led us to his 1,200-head herd on wooden skis, rifle ready, whistling them through the forest like a tundra pied piper.
The reindeer pawed snow for grass; once calm, we walked among them, photographing their fascinating behaviors.
Harvesting Reindeer Meat
The Evens culled a reindeer—as done every few weeks—for meat, pelts, and gear. We traded village supplies for fresh portions to fuel our trip.
Observing the process was intense...
WARNING: The next section describes animal slaughter and processing. Skip if sensitive.
[su_spoiler title="Click To Read Graphic Content" open="no" style="fancy" icon="plus" anchor="" class=""]Witnessing slaughter firsthand is eye-opening, underscoring meat's origins.
It fosters deep respect for traditional sustenance.
Knives peel skin, organs are removed, meat portioned by cuts for transport.
A ritual cup of warm reindeer blood—iron-tanged with bits—is shared to honor the animal. Some of us partook.[/su_spoiler]
Dangerous Weather Strikes
Camp feasts of steaming reindeer stew preceded a stormy night—gale-force winds buried tents in frost by 4 a.m.
Morning chaos: 60 mph whiteout forced a frantic pack-up.
Uncertain of the next taboon, we retreated to Esso; frostbite nipped at some.
Legends of the Whales
Refreshed in Esso, we tracked another taboon over four days.
Some families roam in portable yurts with their herds.
We stayed in cabins, one beneath 11,834-ft. (3,607 m) Ichinsky Volcano, Kamchatka's Sredinny Range highpoint.
Even shamanism includes tales like a volcano spirit cooking whales on its fingers, birthing the smoke.
Geothermal hot springs abound.
Russia's Ultimate Adventure Destination
Returning to Esso after a raw week, reflections abound: Kamchatka blends rugged splendor, wildlife, and ancient ways—crowd-free.
Trials forge the deepest rewards.
May Kamchatka's reindeer endure amid global declines from climate change.
For future trips, explore Matt Reichel's Inertia Network tours.
