From Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang: Road Lessons, Sacred Rituals, and Kuang Si Waterfalls
Learning Valuable Lessons in Vang Vieng
We woke up in Vang Vieng confident everything was set for our journey to Luang Prabang. After breakfast at Santana’s, Scott exchanged $20 for 162,000 Kip.
Back at the Grandview Hotel by the river near the tubing station, we checked out as our taxi waited. The owner insisted on payment for both nights, despite our prior payments and separate receipts. With only one receipt in hand and a booked bus through them, we reluctantly paid for an extra night amid some tense discussion.
It was a classic travel mishap, teaching us to safeguard receipts until checkout. Ironically, we found the second one two hours later as a bookmark in our guidebook—but turning back wasn't feasible.
The Drive from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang
About two hours from Luang Prabang, uniformed Lao officials halted our bus for a truck that had plunged off a cliff. Rescue efforts with a larger truck failed during our 30-minute wait. No one appeared injured, easing our concerns as traffic resumed.
The seven-hour drive featured sharp turns and screeching tires, challenging my motion sickness. With just an hour left, a wet cat food smell signaled the passenger behind me had quietly vomited. Tip for prone travelers: claim a front seat with the driver.
First Impressions of Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang offered a refreshing contrast to Vang Vieng's party vibe—a charming city of historic architecture, outdoor markets, and European flair, minus the dive bars blasting sitcom reruns.
Enjoy upscale cafes with diverse cuisines and free Wi-Fi, or budget internet cafes at 100 Kip per minute (about $0.75/hour). Nestled between the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, Mekong-side eateries are more affordable. For breakfast, try Morning Glory Cafe's teas, sandwiches, and fluffy pancakes.
Nama Vong Guest House
Our charming Mekong riverside stay at Nama Vong Guesthouse cost just 50,000 Kip. Our taxi driver tried twice to detour us, even claiming no vacancy, but persistence got us there.
Settled in, we grabbed a Beer Lao and free Wi-Fi. Strolling town, we bumped into fellow travelers from our roadside delay and planned a shared taxi to Kuang Si Falls next morning.
Lao New Year Celebrations
That evening near our guesthouse, we joined locals at Wat Xieng Thong for the ceremonial "Washing of the Buddha," honoring Buddha's birth and enlightenment. Crowds offered gifts, ladling water or tea over the infant Buddha statue in this spiritual ritual.
Kuang Si Falls
Kuang Si Falls were a Laos highlight: turquoise pools for jumping and rope swings, plus free "fish massages" from nibbling fish. A paradise upgrade from Vang Vieng's muddy river swims.
Luang Prabang Night Market
We wandered the evening street market, savoring local dishes and haggling for souvenirs—from $40 to $8 on one item. Don't hesitate to bargain!
