Discover Bhutan's Remote East: Trek Merak Sakten, Where Few Travelers Venture
'We are only the third group to visit in at least 15 years.'
My guide's words lingered in the crisp mountain air, scented with pine and a touch of enchantment. I absorbed their significance while gazing at the scene: a river surging through a forested valley; towering prayer flags fluttering like yacht sails in the wind; a woman in a red embroidered robe guiding her cow to pasture.
This breathtaking vista has been witnessed by precious few outsiders.
Pioneering the Himalayas
In the 21st century, being among the first—or even third—to explore a place is extraordinary. When Bhutan's government opened the Merak Sakten region in 2010, it offered everyday travelers the rare opportunity to become pioneers.
Merak Sakten, a pristine expanse of foothills and valleys centered around its two namesake villages, lies in the far east of this Himalayan kingdom—diametrically opposite the capital and sole international airport. Renowned for its extreme remoteness, unique wildlife (including the Sakten Wildlife Sanctuary, a haven for yeti sightings), and distinct local culture, it's truly a world apart.
The semi-nomadic Drokpa people here speak a unique dialect, revere their own deities, and don distinctive traditional attire. To safeguard this heritage, the government restricted tourist access in 1995, even though few foreigners had visited prior.
Today, to boost national tourism, Merak Sakten welcomes adventurers. The premier way to experience it is a multi-day trek through river valleys and over a 4,300m pass to the villages.
Saintly Encounters and Yeti Legends
But is novelty alone worth the journey? Absolutely, with compelling advantages.
Locals in Merak Sakten paid me little heed—no persistent vendors in the village lanes, no staged cultural shows for tourists. Seeking a shamo—the iconic black yak-hair beret with five tentacle-like protrusions to repel rain—I found no souvenir stalls. Instead, a friendly farmer sold me his own for a handful of ngultrum.
I simply observed authentic daily life unfolding, and it was mesmerizing.
As my guide and I wandered lush hillsides past white farmhouses with vividly painted eaves, Bhutan's spiritual allure enveloped us. In this devoutly Buddhist nation, every river, rock, and rhododendron holds a spirit or deity. One day, during a picnic, a genuine living saint—a holy figure in red robes—bestowed blessings upon us as he passed by.
Such serendipitous magic defines East Bhutan, lurking around every bend. I didn't spot a yeti (mercifully, as they're said to be massive, garlic-scented brutes averse to humans), but I met locals who insist they have. Here, yetis are legend made real.
Sharing this natural paradise with just a few locals—and perhaps those elusive yetis—is pure magic.
Reaching Merak Sakten
Until an eastern airport opens, the fastest route is via India's Samdrup Jongkhar border crossing. Samdrup Jongkhar is a 2.5-hour drive from Guwahati Airport in Assam. From there, it's a 6.5-hour winding drive to Trashigang, Eastern Bhutan's main hub.
Trashigang to Chaling, the trek's starting point for the loop to Phongme, takes 2.5 hours. This permitted route offers day hikes; the full trek suits four days for fit hikers or five/six for a relaxed pace.
For Bhutan travel essentials—including visas and fees—visit www.tourism.gov.bt.
Further reading: Lonely Planet's article, Bhutan - welcome to Shangri-La
