Mississippi Culinary Road Trip: Savoring Southern Flavors and Stories with @eatingNOLA
One of the best ways to truly experience a destination is through its cuisine. We invited Brian Maurice, a renowned New Orleans culinary influencer and key figure behind @eatingNOLA, to embark on an unforgettable road trip through Mississippi.
A Louisiana native, Brian had visited Mississippi's Gulf Coast but had yet to explore deeper into this neighboring state. His mission: uncover the vibrant food scene and the compelling stories behind it.
"It surprised me how much exceptional food and exciting activities await in central Mississippi—right next door," Brian shared. "People often chase big cities or glossy magazine spots, but these small towns deliver incredible experiences."
During his trip amid the COVID-19 era, every spot he visited prioritized safety with masks, sanitizers, and protocols. "I felt secure everywhere," he noted. "They handled precautions perfectly."
Follow Brian's journey through Mississippi's heartland, where delectable dishes pair with rich storytelling. Fair warning: You'll finish this craving a taste.
Natchez
Brian's adventure began in Natchez, a charming walkable city perched on the Mississippi River just across from Louisiana, blooming with flowers for his first meal.
Starting at Fat Mama's Tamales, a family-friendly spot with authentic Mexican flair. "I knew of Fat Mama's, but not how tamales are a cultural cornerstone in Mississippi," Brian explained, highlighting the Tamale Trail in the Delta. Don't miss their sweet-spicy fire-and-ice pickles; he snapped photos of the food (saving the "knock-you-naked margaritas" for family-friendly vibes).
A short walk away, The Camp offers stunning river views. Mississippi's iconic catfish shines in their Southern-style fish tacos, made with farm-raised fillets. Brian raved about the innovative smoked-then-fried wings—a first for him.
Next, Rolling "N" the Dough, founded by 18-year-old entrepreneur Hannah-Grace Hinkle. Specializing in gourmet edible cookie dough (30 flavors!), her award-winning s'mores popcorn—blending popcorn, toffee, marshmallow, graham crackers, and Hershey's chocolate—earned national acclaim. "Get it out of your house; it's addictive," Brian joked, grabbing bags for the road.
Vicksburg
Next: historic Vicksburg. "The city's rich history hits you immediately," Brian said, pointing to cannonballs outside government buildings from the pivotal 1863 Civil War battle.
At Main Street Market Cafe, featuring seasonal, from-scratch dishes, Brian witnessed the daily "Old Lady Lunch" ritual of local women gathering at 11 a.m.
His meal—gumbo, white beans with blackened shrimp, and buttery biscuits—evoked home. "Strong New Orleans ties here," he observed. A local tipped him off to Solly's Tamales (since 1939) for a classic tamale.
Vicksburg's open-container policy for drinks downtown called for Cottonwood Public House/Key City Brewing Company IPAs. (The "Key City" nods to Abraham Lincoln's view of Vicksburg's Civil War importance.)
A standout: The Tomato Place, evolved from a Highway 61 produce stand into an eclectic market. Owner Luke Hughes started with tomato sandwiches; Brian's fried-green-tomato BLT on rye with a fried egg was "one of the trip's best—I'd detour for it anytime."
Jackson
In Mississippi's capital, Jackson, Brian dined, drank, and rested at Fairview Inn, a 1908 Colonial Revival mansion. "More like a gracious home stay—with a cozy library bar," he described.
Walkable Elvie's delivered 1920s elegance. Brian's favorite: oyster Rockefeller casserole and escargot with collard greens. "Incredible home-style elevated with garlic, artichokes, pistachios, butternut squash, and fingerlings," he said. He waddled back stuffed.
Next morning, pacing himself at iconic Brent's Drugs (1946 diner from "The Help"): buttermilk biscuit with fried chicken, grits, and a Butterfinger-ginger-vanilla milkshake.
Indianola
In tiny Indianola (pop. ~10,000), The Crown antique store sells the 1990 national contest-winning smoked catfish pâté—a holiday staple.
Cleveland
Cleveland, a 1950s-time-capsule town, wowed Brian. At Delta Meat Market, Chef Cole Ellis (ex-Charleston/Nashville) serves fried catfish, greens, and brisket grilled cheese. During COVID, it pivoted to a grocery.
Neighboring Hey Joe's Burgers & Beer, born from a band's gig spot, rocks burgers like Kevin Bacon amid music memorabilia.
Greenwood
Home to Viking Range, Greenwood boasts the Viking Cooking School.
At Viking-owned Alluvian Hotel, Brian savored spanakopita and catfish cakes at Giardina's.
Dinner at Fan and Johnny's by James Beard-nominated Chef Taylor Bowen Ricketts: legendary duck ravioli. "Soulful perfection—one of the best meals ever," plus stellar bread pudding.
Dessert encore at The Crystal Grill: lemon icebox and cheesecake pies. "Must-haves—you'll make room."
Hattiesburg
Final stop: Hattiesburg's Birdhouse Café. Ex-trainer Chef Katie Dixon's avocado toast, açai bowl, and zucchini muffins shine in this interactive kitchen.
Last bites at Cotton Blues Kitchen & Marketplace: salted caramel cheesecake (nationally shipped). "Rich, creamy perfection."
Meeting resilient chefs and their stories was the trip's highlight. "They've built proud legacies. I'll return—these towns overflow with food and culture, just hours from New Orleans."
