Mono Lake Guide: Tufa Towers, Bodie Ghost Town & Eastern Sierra Adventures
Spanning 70 square miles, Mono Lake ranks as North America's second-oldest lake, presenting a serene, mysterious expanse of deep blue water. Its glassy surface mirrors the rugged Sierra Nevada peaks, youthful volcanic cones, and iconic tufa (too-fah) towers that give the lake its surreal character. These towering formations, resembling drip-castle sculptures, arise when calcium from underground springs reacts with the lake's carbonate-rich waters.
Beyond Mono Lake and its dramatic tufas, the surrounding region brims with natural wonders and captivating landscapes. Highway 395, the backbone of the Mono Lake area, offers turnoffs westward into the mountains or eastward across the high desert. Whichever path you take, the lake's meditative allure draws you back.
Step back to the Gold Rush era at Bodie, one of the West's most authentic ghost towns. Virginia Lakes and Lundy Lake provide easy access to remote wilderness trails, as does the June Lake area. Scenic drives wind through deep canyons flanked by towering mountain slopes. For the best swimming in Mono Lake, head to Navy Beach off Highway 120—ideal for launching canoes or kayaks.
Experience Old West charm and artistic legacy at the Mono Inn, a restored 1922 lodge tied to photographer Ansel Adams' family. This elegant yet relaxed lakefront spot prepares everything from scratch, paired with stunning views indoors and out. Enjoy occasional live music on the creekside terrace. Located 5 miles north of Lee Vining; reservations recommended as hours may vary.
The South Tufa Grove
Far from Mark Twain's 'dead sea' depiction in Roughing It, Mono Lake's brackish waters buzz with alkali flies and brine shrimp—delicacies for migratory birds. About 60% of California's gull population nests on its volcanic islands each spring and summer. The South Tufa area offers prime viewing.
Peculiar tufa spires encircle the shimmering lake, with the largest grove at the southern shore featuring a 1-mile interpretive trail. Visit at dusk on calm days for breathtaking reflections of the mountain ranges. Inquire about ranger-led tours. Note: Climbing tufas damages them and is prohibited, as is collecting pumice or obsidian. From Lee Vining, drive south on Hwy 395 for 6 miles, then east on Hwy 120 for 5 miles to the gravel road and parking lot. Use the honesty box for entry.
Panum Crater
Towering over Mono Lake's southern shore, 640-year-old Panum Crater is the youngest and most accessible in a chain extending toward Mammoth Mountain. A panoramic rim trail (30-45 minutes) circles the crater, while a steep 'plug trail' leads to its heart.
Access via dirt road from Hwy 120, 3 miles east of Hwy 395 junction. A 4WD or skilled driving may be needed in poor conditions; walking is an option.
The Black Point Fissures
On Mono Lake's north shore, these narrow crags formed 13,000 years ago as lava cooled and contracted. Reach them east of Mono Lake County Park, off western Hwy 395, or south of Hwy 167. Get precise directions at the Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center.
Convict Lake
Despite its ominous name, Convict Lake is among Mono County's most picturesque, fed by Convict Creek near Hwy 395. Glacier-carved like others here, it offers exceptional trout fishing amid dramatic Sierra Nevada vistas, including Mt. Morrison.
Its name stems from an 1871 prison escape shootout, not the Paiute term Wit-sa-nap (home of childlike fish spirits). This history and scenery made it a set for Western films like 1951's The Secret of Convict Lake. Book cabins at Convict Lake Resort; marina offers boat rentals, kayaks, and paddleboards.
Lundy Lake
After Conway Summit, Hwy 395 descends into the Mono Basin. Lundy Lake Road veers west for 5 miles to this stunning spot, alive with spring wildflowers along Mill Creek or fall foliage. Before the lake, find first-come, first-served Lundy Canyon Campground. At lake's end: a historic resort site, store, and boat rentals.
Beyond, a dirt road enters Lundy Canyon, ending at the Hoover Wilderness trailhead after 2 miles. Hike 1.5 miles to 200ft Lundy Falls amid beaver dams and aspens. Ambitious hikers continue via Lundy Pass to Saddlebag Lake and Twenty Lakes Basin, tackling a steep talus chute. Note: Road may be snow-blocked in winter.
Virginia Lakes
Near Conway Summit (8,143ft) south of Bridgeport, capture epic views of Mono Lake, Mono Craters, June, and Mammoth Mountains. Virginia Lakes Road (winter-closed) follows Virginia Creek 6 miles to lakes below Dunderberg Peak (12,374ft) and Black Mountain (11,797ft). Trailhead accesses Hoover Wilderness and Pacific Crest Trail, linking to Yosemite.
Opt for Virginia Lakes Resort's cozy cabins (2-9 people, kitchens, 3-day min.), cafe, and store. Inquire about seasonal trails (May-Oct) and fishing. Virginia Lakes Pack Outfit offers horseback trips.
The June Lake Loop
Beneath Carson Peak (10,909ft), the 16-mile June Lake Loop (Hwy 158) winds through a horseshoe canyon past June Lake town and four trout-filled gems: Grant, Silver, Gull, and June. Fall aspens ignite the scenery. Start south of Lee Vining.
Adjoining Ansel Adams Wilderness leads to Yosemite. Hikes and horse trips rival the best in the Sierras. June Mountain Ski Area suits beginners (Mammoth passes valid). Rush Creek Trailhead has day parking. Day hikes to Gem/Agnew Lakes; overnights to Thousand Island/Emerald Lakes on PCT/JMT.
Marinas and Ernie's Tackle & Ski Shop provide rentals/licenses. Swim at June Lake Beach; winter picnics too.
Twin Lakes
Anglers flock to Twin Lakes, nestled under Sawtooth Ridge—home to California's record 26lb brown trout (1987). Lower Twin is serene; Upper allows boating/waterskiing. Bike, hike into Hoover Wilderness/Yosemite.
Trailhead past Annett's Mono Village (winter-closed road; $10/vehicle/week parking 8am-5pm). Permits at Bridgeport Ranger Station for overnights. 8-mile RT to Barney Lake via Little Slide Canyon (Incredible Hulk climbing). Horse Creek Trail south to Horsetail Falls, loop via Cattle Creek (7.5 miles total). Jack Kerouac chronicled Matterhorn Peak ascent in Dharma Bums.
Lee Vining
Hwy 395 hugs Mono Lake's west bank into Lee Vining—ideal base for lake exploration and Yosemite's Tioga Pass (12 miles, 30-min drive). Also prime for ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon.
Peek at the Upside-Down House by Nellie Bly O'Bryan, now by Mono Basin Historical Society Museum (farming tools, artifacts, photos). East on 1st St to Mattley Ave.
Bodie
Gold found 1859; by 1879, Bodie boomed to 10,000 amid lawlessness (65 saloons). $34M in gold/silver, then decline. Bodie State Historic Park preserves 'arrested decay': 200 buildings with original contents—stores, homes, school, jail.
13 miles east of Hwy 395 via Hwy 270 (last 3 unpaved), 7 miles south of Bridgeport.
Bridgeport
This compact Western town amid high valley and Sawtooth Ridge charms with historic storefronts. Summer hub for anglers/hikers; winter quiets.
Mono County Museum (summer): mining artifacts, Paiute baskets. Courthouse (1880): Italianate gem. Nearby Old County Jail (1883-1964).
Visiting Mono Lake
Eastern Sierra Transit: buses Hwy 395 Lone Pine-Reno ($59, 6hrs; stops Mammoth/Lee Vining/Bridgeport; Mon-Fri).
Hwy 120 from Lee Vining climbs to Yosemite Tioga Pass.
Bodie: year-round, but winter road closure—snowshoe/ski. Check visitor centers for closures; small roads unplowed till spring melt.
Camping near Mono Lake
Abundant sites around June Lake Loop; resorts/inns too. Lee Vining Yosemite gateway.
Lundy Canyon (first-come): 37 sites, vault toilets, unfiltered water (treat). Mono County operated.
Saddlebag Lake (10,000ft): 20 angler-favorite sites, water/toilets, views. No reservations.
Trumbull Lake: shaded pines, toilets/water/rings/benches/bear lockers.
Sawmill walk-in: 12 scenic sites near Monroe Hall (hiking only), quarter-mile walk, toilets/creek water. No reservations.
