Amman, Jordan: The Ultimate Food Lover's Guide to the Middle East's Culinary Capital
While Petra tops most Jordan itineraries, savvy travelers know to allocate food-focused days in Amman, the cosmopolitan capital. Beyond Rainbow Street's cafe scene—famed for its ultra-creamy hummus and aromatic cardamom coffee—Amman is a gastronomic haven. Bring your appetite for an unforgettable feast.
Five days here is ideal, especially during Jordan Food Week, but you can savor key highlights intensely over two. As experienced travelers and Lonely Planet contributors, we've curated this guide based on firsthand exploration.
Explore the Souks and Iconic Sights
Downtown Amman's souks ignite the senses with vibrant spices, fresh produce, and bustling energy. Sellers hawk locally grown vegetables and fruits—spot spring's tart janarek (sour plums) amid oversized pink radishes, juicy dates, and perfect rose buds. Don't miss Izhiman Coffee on Petra Street for freshly roasted beans, exotic herbs, spices (even popcorn and cheddar varieties), and insights into premium thymes like royal, super, and special.
After tasting and bargaining, recharge at nearby landmarks. Ascend to the grand Roman Theatre or Amman's Citadel for panoramic views of the ochre cityscape, including the Temple of Hercules—perfect for reorienting after indulgent bites.
Savor a Traditional Jordanian Breakfast
Embrace local culture with fuul medames, a staple at Middle Eastern spots or hotel buffets. Start with a copper pot of warm fava beans (fuul). Smear hummus or tahini around your bowl (not both), add beans, then sumac and cumin. Customize with tomatoes, onions, garlic-lemon-chili dressing, olive oil, and extra spice. Pair with warm pita or falafel for authenticity.
Indulge in Amman's Diverse Culinary Heritage
Amman's hummus transcends supermarket versions: thick, creamy, subtly smoky bliss. Elevate it with warm Hummus Fatteh at Jafra Café in Downtown—hummus with toasted bread, lamb, lemon-vinegar dressing, and pine nuts.
Jordan's national dish, mansaf ('large platter'), features tender lamb (or camel) in tangy jameed yogurt sauce over rice, almonds, and shrak bread. Try it communally at Tawaheen Alhawa Restaurant's courtyard—eat traditionally with your right hand, starting with rice balls.
For refined Jordanian fare, visit bougainvillea-clad Sufra on Rainbow Street. Begin with mezze and fresh oven bread, then daily specials like reqab mahschiyah (lamb neck with rice) or fakharat riesh (chops tagine). Stroll Rainbow Street or to vibrant Draj Al Kallha afterward.
Delight in Local Sweet Treats
Join suited locals queuing at Habibah alley for kunafeh: warm cheese pastry in rosewater syrup, pistachio-dusted. Or at Al Quds, pair it with pistachio-rolled Arabic ice cream—arrive early for a table.
Coffee, Tea, or Mint Refreshment?
Hot drinks signal Bedouin hospitality. Amman's cardamom-spiced Arabic coffee is bold and smooth—Sufra's version shines, paired with rose Turkish delight biscuits. Non-coffee lovers: try lemon-mint iced refreshment, a welcoming staple.
Cook with Locals or Join Jordan Food Week
Jordan Food Week (inaugural 2018, now annual via USAID) showcases producers, demos, and female artisans' rare recipes. For hands-on, book Beit Sitti cooking school by Maria Haddad—grill, chop, and dine on four courses in her grandmother's home. Watch for her new home-dining venture.
Karyn Noble visited Amman courtesy of Visit Jordan and Travel Local, flying Royal Jordanian and staying at W Amman. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies for positive coverage.
