Discover Ecuador: History, Culture, and Wonders from the Andes to the Galápagos
Ecuador, a compact South American gem, offers a stunning tapestry of natural and cultural marvels. Start in the colonial heart of Quito, immerse yourself in the vibrant cloud forests alive with hummingbirds and prowling pumas, ascend the Andes to connect with Otavalo's indigenous artisans, embark on a scenic train journey from Ibarra, and cap your trip amid the Galápagos' extraordinary wildlife.
This article first appeared in the Fall 2017 issue of Lonely Planet magazine's U.S. edition, drawing on firsthand experiences from expert guides and locals.
Quito
As dawn's piercing blue light bathes Quito's old town, dogs chase produce-laden pickup trucks over cobblestone streets quarried from the looming Pichincha volcano. Shopkeepers open shutters, greeting neighbors while arranging spices like cumin and cinnamon, aluminum cookware, cow hooves, and colorful piñatas shaped like unicorns, Minnie Mouse, and SpongeBob SquarePants.
On these steep backstreets, layers of commerce thrive. Women in felt hats and wool ponchos unroll mats to sell corn on the cob, potatoes, and avocados from nearby villages.
'Everywhere, you'll hear chismes,' explains local guide Paola Carrera of the San Roque neighborhood—Ecuador's word for the secrets, news, and gossip shared by vendors from across the country. Carrera's mother sells agua de vida, a vibrant pink tonic crafted from 25 plants, including Amazon-sourced herbs and amaranth flowers.
'I've always loved living above the shop,' Carrera shares. 'San Roque's traditional buildings brim with character, fostering deep community ties that have drawn visitors for generations.'
Passing the whitewashed Church of San Francisco, locals cross themselves and touch sun god sculptures for energy. Founded in 1535 shortly after Spanish conquistadors arrived, Franciscan monks blended indigenous Quitu symbols with Catholicism. Moorish influences from North Africa shine in the gilded interiors, symbolizing both Spanish wealth and the sun god's eternal power for locals.
Carrera introduces neighborhood artisans: Don Gonzalo Gallardo restores fire-damaged religious effigies, while César Anchala at Sombrerería Benalcázar crafts trilby hats using 65-year-old family molds and sells Inti Raymi festival masks depicting demons and politicians.
At San Roque's market, a queue forms at Rosa Correa's stall despite the shrieks. For $8 weekly, the fourth-generation shaman performs 'evil eye' cleansings with plants like chilies, marigolds, and nettles—ancient beliefs that still resonate deeply.
The Cloud Forest
At 3,900 feet in the Chocó-Andean cloud forest, jungle sounds crescendo: thunder, rain on moss-draped ferns, insect chirps, and hummingbird whirs.
Guide José Napa identifies gems like the white-whiskered hermit, violet-tailed sylph, brown inca, purple-bibbed whitetip, and empress brilliant at a sugar feeder. 'Their aggression stems from high metabolisms and scarce nectar,' he notes.
Fueled by up to 20 feet of annual Pacific rain, the Chocó rivals the Amazon in biodiversity but faces threats from pollution, farming, and logging. Napa, a former farmer and logger, now guides at Mashpi eco-lodge in a 2,900-acre reserve within a 42,000-acre buffer zone.
His forest expertise spots quails, firefly glades, toucan fruits, medicinal fungi, and distant howler monkeys. Scientists study butterflies, reintroduce spider monkeys, and capture puma footage near lodge trails.
Otavalo
Winding into the Andes past pigs, cows, and agave, roads lead to puma, bear, and condor habitats. Otavalo's markets draw locals; Kichwa Mass echoes Inca roots.
Imbaya people in embroidered ponchos and beaded necklaces sell Andean produce. Rosario Tabango's presidential-award-winning hornado—crisp, garlicky roast pig—draws crowds.
Nearby Agato's Luz Maria Andrango weaves guagua chumbi belts with natural dyes. In Peguche, José Luis Fichamba crafts paya, rondador, and gaita flutes, evoking heartfelt Andean traditions amid volcanoes.
Ibarra
Board the Tren de la Libertad from colonial Ibarra through volcanoes to Afro-Ecuadorian sugarcane fields.
Post-1868 earthquake survivor Ibarra hosts a leisurely departure amid vendors. The route tunnels and bridges dramatic terrain, dropping elevation amid diverse ecosystems.
Reflecting Ecuador's demographics, passengers reach Salinas where Milena Espinoza's bomba dancers revive slave-era traditions with rhythmic joy.
The Galápagos
Sunset volleyball in Puerto Ayora draws sea lions, crabs, and sneezing iguanas to the lively harbor.
Part of Ecuador 600 miles away, these 'Enchanted Islands' host 30,000 residents. Santa Cruz offers prime wildlife without cruising: land iguanas, giant tortoises at El Chato and Darwin Station, finches, and owls.
Guide Ramiro Jácome Baño shares evolutions from mainland iguanas. Snorkel near Finch Bay for turtles and rays amid abundant wet-season life.
