Bhutan: The Mystical Kingdom of the Clouds – A Himalayan Journey of Tradition and Wonder
Bhutan is a mesmerizing Himalayan kingdom where ancient Buddhist traditions harmoniously blend with emerging modernity. The nation reveres its unique national animal, the takin, Hollywood action star Steven Seagal, and the sacred flaming thunderbolt of wisdom. Peter Grunert, editor of Lonely Planet Magazine, reveals the highlights of this enchanting realm.
A takin—a striking blend of mountain goat and gnu. Photo by Jonathan Gregson
The Takin: Bhutan’s National Animal
Nestled at the edge of a mist-shrouded forest fragrant with pine and adorned with peach blossoms, a sign warns: ‘Please do not tease the animals.’ This is home to the takins of Thimphu. Local legend recounts how this peculiar creature originated from the remnants of a meal devoured by the 15th-century Buddhist saint Lama Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman. He reportedly reassembled a cow’s head with a goat’s body and revived it with a mighty belch.
In the 1990s, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck freed the takins from zoo captivity, symbolizing Bhutan’s gradual embrace of modernity. Tucked between China and northeastern India, this secluded kingdom opened to tourists in 1974 and embraced democracy in 2008.
Students receiving instruction at Thimphu’s Painting School. Photo by Jonathan Gregson
Traditional Crafts in Thimphu
Bhutan’s rich heritage crafts are passed down to new generations at Thimphu’s National Institute for Zorig Chusum, known as the Painting School. In the wood-carving workshop, fierce heads of tigers, leopards, boars, owls, snakes, deer, dogs, oxen, rabbits, dragons, and the mythical garuda glare down. Students craft masks destined for vivid painting in the style used at nationwide tsechus—vibrant religious festivals each spring.
The Ancient Art of Archery
Bhutanese culture celebrates machismo, Buddhism, and archery prowess—traits that explain the fondness for tough-guy actor Steven Seagal of Under Siege fame. He visited Bhutan, earning acclaim as the reincarnation of a 13th-century Buddhist treasure discoverer. Echoing the Divine Madman’s spirit, Bhutanese men still compete in long-distance archery.
Worshippers offering prayers at Pangri Zampa. Photo by Jonathan Gregson
Temple Life
Near Thimphu, a steep hike to Tango Goemba rewards with stunning vistas of rhododendron-filled valleys amid thin mountain air. Inside, glimpse gilded Buddha statues while young monks study English, Buddhist philosophy, and even soccer. Nearby Pangri Zampa, a monastic astrology school, hosts ceremonies blessing the nation. Amid swirling incense, monks chant, sound slender trumpets, and perform acrobatic dances as mythical heroes.
Iconic Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest). Tigers roam the nearby mountains. Photo by Jonathan Gregson
Ascent to Tiger’s Nest Monastery
The adventurous route to Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest) traverses rugged mountain ridges, bypassing the standard path. It leads to a high plateau where yak herders winter and Uma Paro hotel sets up seasonal tented camps. Guests overnight in wind-buffeted tents before dawn treks. As night falls, tales emerge of eastern yetis in their national park and tigers tracked by rangers nearby.
This iconic monastery gleams with golden spires atop sheer whitewashed cliffs. From the pilgrim viewpoint, rainbow prayer flags span a gorge, carrying devotees’ hopes across the valley—a testament to Bhutan’s enduring wonder in this kingdom of the clouds.
Excerpt from a feature by Peter Grunert, editor of Lonely Planet Magazine.
Discover more exceptional travel writing and photography in Lonely Planet Magazine.
