Discover Eastern Mongolia: A Clockwise Journey Through Remote Wilderness and Chinggis Khan's Legacy
The allure of solitude, remoteness, and boundless open spaces draws intrepid travelers to the undervisited hills, mountains, and vast grasslands of eastern Mongolia.
Mongolia's far east is so inhospitable that even nomadic gers are scarce. Gallop across endless green steppes, camp by pristine lakes, climb sacred mountains, and trace the footsteps of Chinggis Khan—Mongolia's legendary conqueror who reshaped Europe and Asia—with a copy of The Secret History of the Mongols in hand.
A Land of Hills, Lakes, and Forests
The alleged birthplace of Chinggis Khan. Image by Anna Kaminski.
Launch your clockwise tour from Ulaanbaatar, heading east to Chinggis City, then north into Khentii Province—the serene homeland of history's greatest warlord. Visit Khökh Nuur, where Chinggis Khan declared himself khan of the Mongols, and the recently restored Baldan Bereeven Khiid temple, rebuilt after its destruction in the 1930s Communist purges.
In Binder, hire horses for a trek to Burkhan Khalduun, the sacred mountain said to house Chinggis Khan's burial site (off-limits to foreigners). The charming village of Dadal marks his alleged birthplace, honored by a grand ovoo (shamanic cairn adorned with ribbons). Drink from the same spring and explore his family tree at the Temujin museum.
Continuing east into northern Dornod, scan the steppes for gazelle herds. Near Bayan-Uul, discover enigmatic temple ruins of unknown origin—a rare spot for authentic shamanic rituals.
Camping Far from Civilization
A shrine on the banks of Avarg-Toson Lake. Image by Anna Kaminski.
Veer south before the Russian border to camp beside another Khökh Nuur (Blue Lake), a bird-filled wetland at Mongolia's lowest elevation (560m). En route to Choibalsan—the lively regional hub with hot showers—pass the weathered remnants of Chinggis Khan's Wall, now more akin to a faint track.
The extreme east unfolds in endless grasslands, dotted by occasional ovoos or gers. At its eastern edge lies isolated Buir Nuur lake; camp at its northern shore to witness sunsets over distant China.
East of the lake, the Khalkhiin Gol River marks the site of pivotal 1939 WWII battles where Soviet-Mongolian forces halted Japanese advances toward Siberia. Memorials line its banks.
Nearby Ikh Burkhant features a massive Janraisag deity statue flanked by guardians and entwined figures. Southeast across grasslands and oil fields, skirt the Nömrög and Dornod Strictly Protected Areas, safeguarding endangered Ussurian moose and gazelles from poaching.
Holy Sites and Ancient Tent Cities
Two stone balbals near Dariganga village. Image by Anna Kaminski.
In Sükhbaatar Province, rich with balbals (ancient stone memorials), Dariganga nestles below sacred Altan Ovoo—a volcanic crater crowned by a stupa (women prohibited). Nearby Shiliin Bodg Uul welcomes all to its summit ovoo with horsehair banners and aromatic offerings. Descend to Taliin Agui cave, revered for its healing energy by wrestlers.
Returning toward Ulaanbaatar, detour to Delgerkhaan, the legendary tent city predating Karakorum as the Mongol Empire's first capital. This ger district borders round Avarg-Tösön Lake, flanked by a shrine and ovoo. Locals flock here for the lake's reputed healing waters. Nearby, a Chinggis Khan obelisk and carbonated spring await.
Make It Happen
A river winding through eastern Mongolia's countryside. Image by Anna Kaminski.
Explore eastern Mongolia with ample time, patience, and preparation. Daily buses link Ulaanbaatar to Chinggis City, Baruun-Urt, and Choibalsan; jeeps or minibuses serve Dadal and Dariganga.
For remote sites, opt for a 4x4 with driver (easiest from Ulaanbaatar via Happy Camel at www.happycamel.com) or horses from ger camps. Rough tracks demand GPS; self-driving risks isolation in breakdowns. Secure border permits from Ulaanbaatar's State Frontier Guard for areas like Dadal, Khalkh Gol, and Dariganga, and register at checkpoints.
Stock up on supplies; ger hospitality offers tea and bread, but self-sufficiency is key with food, water, stove, and tent. Ger camps and basic hotels provide alternatives.
Anna Kaminski, Lonely Planet author, traversed Mongolia's steppes tracing potential ancestor Chinggis Khan—though she deems traditional saddles pure torment. Follow her @ACKaminski.
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