8 Steps to an Unforgettable Kenyan Safari Adventure

Embark on Kenya's historic Lunatic Express railway and uncover the origins of the modern safari with this expert guide from Lonely Planet Magazine. In this excerpt by travel writer Oliver Smith, follow eight authentic steps to craft your own thrilling expedition through Africa's wild heart, featuring exhilarating wildlife encounters and luxurious camps.

1. Begin in Mombasa

While contemporary safaris often start in Nairobi, traditional expeditions launched from Mombasa. Explore the old town's narrow alleys and ornate doorways, and visit Fort Jesus—a formidable 16th-century Portuguese fortress guarding the harbor with its cannons (museums.or.ke).

2. Board the Legendary Lunatic Express

The iconic Lunatic Express railway shaped the safari experience, transporting affluent Westerners from Africa's coast into its untamed interior. Despite its colonial past and era of big-game hunting, it offered the same thrill modern visitors seek: vast open landscapes and the adrenaline of a predator-prey world.

Rift Valley Railways operates services on this historic route. As of this writing, overnight trains from Mombasa to Nairobi run three times weekly, though schedules may change—check ahead (https://www.eastafricashuttles.com/).

3. Visit Nairobi's Railway Museum

Just steps from Nairobi railway station, this museum showcases Lunatic Express artifacts, from vintage restaurant menus to the claws of the infamous Tsavo man-eaters. Climb aboard the weathered locomotives in the adjacent sidings (Station Rd, Nairobi Hill 30121).

4. Indulge in Timeless Elegance at the Norfolk Hotel

A rare survivor of early 20th-century Nairobi, the luxurious Fairmont Norfolk Hotel—modeled in mock-Tudor style—welcomed arriving safari pioneers. Enjoy its private tropical garden, vintage cars in the courtyard, and historic photos along the corridors (fairmont.com/norfolkhotel).

5. Camp in Amboseli National Park

Nestled beneath Mount Kilimanjaro, Amboseli offers expansive swampy plains, cinematic horizons, and thriving elephant herds. Operators like Somak provide park-area accommodations and Nairobi transfers (somak.com).

Amboseli Porini Camp, one of Kenya's premier eco-camps, partners with the Maasai community, directing profits to local schools. Opt for the shaded main camp or a rustic mobile outpost nearby (porini.com).

7. Embrace Sustainability at an Eco-Lodge

East of Amboseli, Campi Ya Kanzi—an upscale Italian-managed eco-lodge—features wood-and-thatch structures on Chyulu Hills National Park's fringes. Its eco-friendly design includes solar-heated rainwater showers (maasai.com).

8. Venture into the Maasai Mara

Kenya's top safari spot, Maasai Mara National Reserve dazzles with the wildebeest migration and year-round big cat populations. Cheli & Peacock arranges stays here (https://chelipeacock.com).

For more wildlife wonders, itineraries, and tips, pick up the latest Lonely Planet Magazine.