Net Hunting with BaAka Pygmies in Dzanga-Sangha Reserve, Central African Republic
I had always believed that stalking game demanded silence, caution, and patience. Yet, I was astonished to see my BaAka hunting partners racing through the forest, screaming, singing, and bursting with energy after setting nets in the undergrowth. Later that day, I learned the clever logic behind the chaos: the small antelope they targeted would hunker down when startled, while dangerous animals like elephants, buffalo, and gorillas would flee at the first shout.
A BaAka woman prepares a net for hunting small antelope on the forest edge of Dzanga-Sangha Reserve, a vast tri-national park. On the Central African Republic (CAR) side, WWF manages the reserve and encourages visitors to join BaAka hunts, enabling these often-marginalized people to earn income from tourism. Image by Stuart Butler / Lonely Planet.
I was exploring CAR's Dzanga-Sangha Reserve, hosted by a group of BaAka pygmies—a people so extraordinary they seem mythical, yet profoundly real.
A BaAka man prepares a poison-tipped arrow for a crossbow during a monkey hunt in southwest CAR. Image by Stuart Butler / Lonely Planet.
Dzanga-Sangha forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sangha Trinational protected area, encompassing pristine Congolese Basin rainforests shared with Congo's Parc National Nouabalé-Ndoki and Cameroon's Parc National de la Lobéké. Home to western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, and chimpanzees, these forests offer more than wildlife viewing. In CAR's Dzanga-Sangha, park authorities promote conservation by involving locals through cultural programs that immerse visitors in traditional BaAka life.
This pangolin (scaly anteater) was captured at the hunt's start, pounced on as it crossed our path—not in a net. Image by Stuart Butler / Lonely Planet.
The chance to experience BaAka traditions drew me here. Reflecting on my days, I marveled at starlit nights where pygmies and forest spirits (jengi) danced around fire embers; loading poison arrows for monkey hunts; tracking habituated gorillas; and paddling jungle rivers amid thunderstorms.
Portrait of a BaAka woman with facial tattoos after a net hunt. Image by Stuart Butler / Lonely Planet.
Net hunting was the highlight—like 'dry land trawling.' The BaAka team stretched low nets, then charged noisily through the forest, flushing duikers (small antelope) toward the nets for easy capture. After many attempts, success: a duiker's squeal and cheers. As I departed this African paradise, the BaAka would feast and dance with forest spirits.
Music and dance are central to BaAka life; village dances often include Bantu villagers. Image by Stuart Butler / Lonely Planet.
Practicalities
Getting there: Air France provides reliable flights to Bangui, CAR's capital. From there, reach Dzanga-Sangha via infrequent public transport or private vehicle.
Where to stay: Sangha Lodge (www.sanghalodge.com), superbly run by South Africans, offers comfortable traditional huts overlooking the river.
Learn more: Visit Dzanga-Sangha Reserve (www.dzanga-sangha.org). Park authorities arrange BaAka cultural experiences. For deeper immersion, contact Louis Sarno (akkaman11@yahoo.co.uk), who has lived with local BaAka for nearly 30 years.
A BaAka man with crossbow near Bayanga village, southwest CAR. Image by Stuart Butler / Lonely Planet.
Other Pygmy Adventures
- Ituri Forest, Democratic Republic of Congo: Pygmies near Okapi Wildlife Reserve lead multi-day jungle hikes. Currently unsafe due to security issues.
- Parc National d’Odzala, Congo: Luxurious jungle stays with Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com). Fly-in to rustic-chic lodges for pygmy-guided gorilla treks.
